The Pizza Trilogy Goes Quad.

How in the world did I miss writing this?  There I was, at home, making pizza dough to create a Sicilian pie for dinner.  Ah yes, that is correct, pizza is called “pie” whether it is baked round or rectangular.  Anyway, too lazy to dig out the huge binder that acts as my personal cookbook, I looked up the recipe on the food blog.  The pizza trilogy posts came up, and also one that made me do a double-take…same title as above, and it was about focaccia bread.

I had done the post way back in 2012, expressing my frustration over not being able to get a pizza that was done correctly.   Every pizzeria we tried, not just in Utah, but in the other 4 Corners states was thick and bready; very little sauce, heavy on the cheese, light on the toppings. Being a New Yorker, this was a mystery to me and I constantly asked, "Why?".  The answers varied from "it's the water", "it's the altitude" to "we can't get the same flour here as they use out East". That last one really made my eyes cross. I make my own pizza at home, use the local water, granted the altitude is 7100 feet above sea level, but white flour is white flour.

It’s 2026 now, and we have found two local restaurants that serve up pizza and calzones with very good quality; Bangers Bar and Pizza in Dove Creek, Colorado, and Smoke Pizza Company in Blanding, Utah.  Obviously, they have discovered how to get around the mysteries of water, altitude and flour; if you haven’t tried them yet, what in the world are you waiting for?  Oh, and Bangers does some great sandwiches too, my favorite being the Chicken Parm sub.  Smoke Pizza has an in-house made bakery section too, and we love their ranch bread, croissants and cream pies.  If, however, you have your own favorite places you are loyal to, that’s great; I’m only suggesting you try these two restaurants if you haven’t already.

Alright, back to my venting on incorrectly made, in my personal opinion, pizza.  One day it dawned on me so brightly; the pizzerias in Utah are making their crust out of focaccia bread dough. This dough is kneaded only once, punched down, topped and left to rise again; hence the thicker and bread-like texture. How do I know this for a fact?  I asked of course, and the owners gladly gave me a lecture on how Utah pizza is done; a couple of owners stated their learning came from Florida or California shops, so…   All I know is how I learned to make the pizzas written about in the trilogy.  Basically, pizza dough is kneaded twice, once before and once after a single rising. For a New York style, it is stretched out to a 1/4inch thickness after the second kneading, then topped and baked.  That is how its unique crispy crust is browned to perfection, yet each slice (a 16-inch is cut into only 8 slices) is foldable and doesn’t fall apart.

The Pizza Trilogy as it appeared in the San Juan Record:

September 25, 2019

The Pizza Trilogy – New York Style

October 9, 2019

The Pizza Trilogy - Sicilian Pizza 

October 23, 2019

The Pizza Trilogy – Chicago Style.

Now I am introducing you to the quad, the fourth style - Utah's Focaccia Style Pizza. I guess if this is what you've grown up on, have never experienced pizza from different regions, then this is the best that you'll ever find. Personally, bread is bread, pizza is pizza, and Utah style pizza leans more towards being a fancy bread than an actual pizza.

What is focaccia bread exactly?  Focaccia is a soft, fluffy, oven-baked Italian flatbread. It features a crisp crust infused with olive oil and a signature dimpled surface created by pressing fingertips into the dough before baking.  Its origin dates back to ancient Rome, and was mainly eaten sprinkled with sea salt, and dipped in olive oil.  Focaccia is usually shaped into one of three forms – round, rectangular or oval.

Cheese Focaccia

Vegetable Focaccia

 

  

Focaccia Bread

Ingredients:

3 cups flour

2 tsp. salt

1 Tbsp. sugar

1 (.25 oz) packet active dry yeast

1 and 1/3 cups warm water (110 F)

3 Tbsp. olive oil, divided by 2 Tbsp. and 1 Tbsp.

Optional Ingredients: chopped fresh herbs, shredded or grated cheeses, thinly sliced or diced vegetables, thinly sliced Italian cold cuts such as prosciutto, capicola or genoa salami.

Preparation:

Into a large bowl, sift together the flour and salt; make a well in the center of the dry ingredients. Sprinkle in the sugar and dry yeast; carefully pour in the water; let stand for 5 minutes while yeast begins to react. Add 2 Tbsp. of oil and carefully begin stirring the flour into the wet center gradually incorporating all the flour.

Place dough on floured board and knead until smooth. Brush ½ tsp. of remaining olive oil into a clean bowl; place dough in bowl and turn once to coat both sides with oil. Cover with a clean linen towel and let dough rise for one hour.

Brush a teaspoon of oil onto a jelly roll or round pizza pan. Punch the dough down and place onto the pan; press the dough out to a ½ inch thickness. Brush with remaining olive oil; with tip of index finger, or handle tip of a wooden spoon, dimple the dough in 2-inch spaces. Sprinkle or place optional ingredients on top of dough; let rise for 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 375F; bake bread for 25-30 minutes; until browned on top. Remove to wire rack to cool slightly; best served warm.

Makes one bread.

For high altitude, adjust the amount of flour, as you would, when making basic bread.

 

There you go, bread that’s pizza, or pizza that’s bread; so long as you enjoy it, that is the only point that matters.

Mary Cokenour

August is National Peach Month.

 

 

Warning, I am about to confuse you with the following information about National Peach Month.

In March 1982, President Ronald Reagan pushed forward Proclamation 4947 to have July proclaimed as National Peach Month.  Congress approved, and President Reagan signed, the proclamation on June 15^th.  However, it was changed to the month of August when it was realized that is the time when the vast majority of summer peach varieties reach their highest level of sweetness, juice, and availability.

Why was this such an important issue for President Reagan?  The observance highlights the fruit's nutritional value, culinary versatility, and economic importance.

Key Peach Facts

·         The major states that produce highest yields of peaches, ranked higher to lower, are: California, South Carolina, Georgia, Pennsylvania and Colorado.

·         Main Types: Clingstone (pit sticks to flesh, good for jams) and Freestone (pit releases easily, best for fresh eating).

·         Nutrition: A medium peach has about 60 calories and provides vitamins A and C plus dietary fiber.

…and the month also has two additional important days: Eat a Peach Day on August 22nd and National Peach Pie Day on August 24th.

Our neighboring state, Colorado produces Palisade Peaches in the Grand Valley (Mesa County containing the cities of Grand Junction and Fruita, and the town of Palisade).  These peaches are the freestone variety, so the pit releases easily, and makes eating more enjoyable.  Driving through Cortez, many a parking lot has a stand featuring these peaches, and prices vary amongst the sellers.

Childhood flashback; in Brooklyn, our home was located opposite a fenced off area that led down to subway tracks.  A peach tree grew on the other side of the fence, and we got to pick peaches as soon as they ripened.  Of course they needed washing, and cutting them open was a must to make sure no parasites had made their way through.  Oh, but eating them was a treat, with the juicy sweetness flowing over my chin, onto my hands, and eventually my shirt became a napkin.  How many of you are now having your own childhood flashback when it comes to eating peaches?  Good memory, right?

Well, enough chatter, and here are two recipes to get your peaches baked.   Artisan Rustic Fruit Pie for National Peach Pie Day on the 24^th, and Peach Cake for anytime throughout the month of August.  Enjoy your peaches!

 

 

Artisan Rustic Fruit Pie

Ingredients:

1 package refrigerated pie crusts (2 in a package)

2 cans (21 oz.) fruit pie filling (in this instance, peach slices with liquid drained.  Don’t throw it away, drink it, it’s so delicious!)

2 Tbsp. butter, melted

Preparation:

Preheat oven to 425F.  Line two 9-inch round pans with parchment paper and unroll each pie crust onto center of parchment paper, carefully so as to not split the edges.

Place the peach slices in a medium bowl.  Create a unique filling with the addition of spices such as cloves, cinnamon and/or nutmeg that will kick up the flavor of the peaches.  Want a bit more color in your filling, add a handful of plump blueberries.

Onto the center of each pie crust, spoon all that lovely goodness; try to keep as much as possible piled up.

Put a little water into a small bowl, not much as you'll be using this to wet your fingertips only.  First, wet those tips, now carefully lift up the crust at the pan edges and crimp a section; the water will help keep the crimp sealed; repeat all around the filling, making sure to draw it close to the center, but not cover the filling entirely.

With a pastry brush, let me digress for a moment; you don't have to get a fancy name, expensive pastry brush.  In any hardware store, you can buy those small hair bristle brushes for about $1 - $2 each.  Yeppers, you can use them for pastry brushes; make sure to clean them in soapy hot water and dry upright before storing them away.  They last indefinitely!

Anyway, use the brush to paint the melted butter all over the exposed crust.  Afterwards, you can sprinkle cinnamon and sugar (use large or coarse grain sugar, found in the baking section) over the crust, and don't forget a little bit over the filling too.  

Bake for 30 minutes.  Remove from the oven and let them rest for 15 minutes; if there was any leakage, don’t worry, they’ll seal as the pies rest.  Each pie will look unique which gives more credence to using the terms "artisan" and "rustic".  To get the pie onto a plate, grab one end of the paper and carefully slide it out of the pan and onto the plate; cut the parchment paper as close to the pies are possible.  Serve warm as is, or with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.  To store, cover with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator; warm up a piece and don't forget the ice cream!

 

Peach Cake

Ingredients:

2 eggs. beaten

2 cups sugar (or equivalent substitute sweetener)

3 tsp. cinnamon

½ cup canola oil

4 cups peach slices

2 cups all-purpose flour

2 tsp. baking soda

Preparation:

Preheat oven to 350F; spray two 0-inch round pans with baking spray.

In a large bowl, mix together eggs, sugar, cinnamon and oil; place in peach slices and coat with mixture.

Sift together flour and baking soda; add to large bowl and mix till dry ingredients are well absorbed. 

Divide into the two pans; bake for 55-60 minutes or until golden brown and toothpick in center comes out cleanly.

Makes 2 cakes.

Mary Cokenour

 

 

 

Chokecherrying the Berries Blue.

“White and yellow, kill a fellow.

Purple and blue, good for you.

Red… could be good, could be dead.”

Survival expert, Mykel Hawke, mnemonic for remembering which berries are safe to eat in the wild.

Now when it comes to berries in the wild, I am one to admit that I am clueless as to the species, and safety, of varieties found in Utah.  Except juniper berries which I have often seen while adventuring to explore ruin sites; and have used juniper ash when baking indigenous based recipes.

 

Here is a list of berries native to Utah:

Serviceberry (Amelanchier): Aka Saskatoon or Juneberry, these sweet, dark blue berries are common in high mountain valleys and ripen in mid-summer.

Chokecherry (Prunus virginiana): Aka Bitter Cherry is very popular for preserves and jellies

Elderberry (Sambucus cerulea): Large shrubs producing clusters of blue berries, often used for jams.

Golden Currant (Ribes aureum): A very hardy native bush that produces yellow-to-black berries.

Oregon Grape (Mahonia repens): A low-growing, groundcover shrub with tart blue berries, often found in mountain areas.

Thimbleberry (Rubus parviflorus): Similar to a raspberry, but flatter and softer.

Buffaloberry (Shepherdia argentea): Often found along rivers, producing bright red or yellow berries.

Bearberry/Kinnikinnick (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi): A trailing, low-growing woody plant with red berries.

Truth be told, the only berries I have seen, for sale, were chokecherry in a jam form, and elderberry, in capsule or gummy form.  If there is a place, within San Juan County, where the berries can be purchased, in whole form, or any other way, I’d really love to know.  In local markets, the typical berries, known to the majority of Americans, are: strawberry, raspberry, blackberry and blueberry.  Oh, I just heard someone ask, “What about cherries, since chokecherry is listed as a berry?”

Cherries have pits in the middle that cannot be eaten, so classified as stone fruits. Berries have seeds in the middle, or coating the outside, and the whole fruit can be eaten, seeds and all.  Chokecherries grow on a shrub, and indigenous peoples used the dried berries in pemmican; a mixture of dried meat, fruit, and fat. The berries were also cooked to create juice and pastes, which were used to help with respiratory and digestive issues.

All the berries we find in stores must be grown, and shipped into, Utah from other states as they are not drought resistant.  So, fresh or frozen, we make due with what we can purchase.

However, and I mentioned this in my mushroom article from November 8, 2023, it would be wonderful if there were classes, and actual outings into our wonderous outdoors, on foraging wild edibles.  I am not the only person saying we need more outdoor activities besides hiking, camping, ATVing, etc., so outdoor experts, what say you about starting food foraging classes?

Ah, so the recipe I will be sharing will contain a very popular berry indeed, the blueberry. They are little bombs loaded with antioxidants that explode within the body to help reduce the risk of: cancer, type 2 diabetes, heart disease, Alzheimer’s disease and Parkinson’s disease.  They have an anti-inflammatory property to reduce joint pain, act as prebiotics to reduce gastrointestinal issues, and strengthen blood vessels in the back of the eyes that helps to improve vision.  These little blue-purplish beauties pack one heck of a healthful punch.  By the way, out in the wild, the berry most similar to blueberries is the serviceberry.  Growing on native shrubs, they are sweet, purple-black, round berries that taste like a mix of blueberry and apple, with a hint of almond. They are drought-tolerant, common in canyons, and make excellent jams, jellies, and pies.

 

With extra blueberries, made two rustic pies of apples and blueberries.

The recipe for Lemon Blueberry Loaf is simple, can be made into muffins as well, and delicious with or without the glaze.  The sweetness of the berries and the tartness of the lemons balance out to give the taste buds a zesty treat.

 

Lemon Blueberry Loaf

Ingredients:

2/3 cup (12 Tbsp.) melted butter

2 cups sugar (or equal non-calorie sweetener; I use Splenda baking blend)

6 Tbsp. lemon juice

4 large eggs

3 cups all-purpose flour (+1/4 cup for high altitude)

2 tsp. baking powder

2 tsp. salt

1 cup milk (I use 2%)

4 Tbsp. of grated lemon peel (fresh, or reconstituted dry)

2 cups of fresh or frozen blueberries

Glaze

3 Tbsp. lemon juice

2 Tbsp. melted butter

2 cups confectioners’ sugar

Preparation:

Preheat oven to 350F; spray, with baking spray, three 8-inch loaf pans, or line muffin tins with paper liners (16-18 standard size, 12 large size).

 

 

 

 

In a medium bowl, blend the butter with the sugar, lemon juice and eggs until smooth. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In a large bowl, sift together flour, baking powder and salt. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Add egg mixture and milk to dry ingredients; stir until well combined.

Fold in lemon peel and blueberries. 

 

 

 

 

Spoon mixture into loaf pans, 3/4s full; or same for muffin liners.  

Bake 55-60 minutes for loaves, 15 to 18 minutes for muffins; or until golden brown and toothpick in center comes out clean.

 

Move loaves and/or muffins to baking rack to fully cool before spooning glaze over tops.

Makes 3 loaves, or 12 or 16-18 muffins, depending on muffin tin size.

So folks, remember to chew your berries well, as you don’t want to be choking on them.

Mary Cokenour 

 

 

 

The Mysterious Tea Time.

A common complaint of book readers, when the movie version comes out is, “Hollywood’s butchered the book!”.  Being a huge fan of British detective/mystery novels, I can say, for certain, that their movie studios do the same blasphemy.  Take, for example, Kenneth Branagh as Hercule Poirot, in which he directed “his vision” of the novels.  After watching each one, I reread the original novel and simply had to wonder, “What was he on when he adapted the novel into a movie, as it barely resembles each other, and the story and characters are whacked out!?”

Investing in a Fire TV Stick has enabled me to mainline channels devoted to Agatha Christie (Miss Marple, Hercule Poirot, Tommy and Tuppence), G.K. Chesterton (Father Brown), Sir Arthur Conan Doyle (Sherlock Holmes), Margery Allingham (Albert Campion), and a slew of prolific writers of the British mystery novel.  This, of course, also offers me the opportunity to learn about authors I have not read before, and get the novels downloaded onto my Kindle, purchase soft/hard cover copies, or even borrow from the local library.  While the solution to one mystery might be at the end, there is a new beginning upon opening a new cover.

 

Which brings me to, “What do most of British novels have in common?”; well, tea time of course!  That daily ritual of civility in which freshly brewed pots of fragrant teas are served amidst a seriously delectable selection of sandwiches, cakes and pastries.  For the British, tea is the socially accepted norm, and any self-respecting household would serve tea, no matter the situation.  How often we have read or seen a Detective Inspector and his constable enter a home, to question or investigate, and immediately the kettle is put on to boil for a cuppa? 

Tea was not introduced to the British Isles until the 1650s, by Dutch traders who had returned, from China, with ships laden with the most mysterious of foreign goods.  While its initial use was medicinal, it was in the 18^th century that tea houses began to crop up.  By then, the Brits were obsessed with tea drinking, and tea houses became a lucrative business, especially as folks traveled, and required food to be served along with their tea. The favorite of the Brits is black tea with English Breakfast and Earl Grey being the most popular.

Ah yes, the tisane that Hercule Poirot drinks incessantly?  A tisane (pronounced tee-zahn) is a caffeine-free herbal infusion made by steeping herbs, flowers, spices, roots, or fruits in hot water. Unlike traditional teas (black, green, white, oolong), which come from the Camellia sinensis plant, tisanes use other plants, often for their aromatic, soothing, or medicinal properties.

Poor Miss Marple, visiting At Bertram’s Hotel after so many years gone by, and finding that the amazing hotel of her childhood was, well, not changed at all for the better.  Dining with Lady Selina Hazy was an experience of nonstop gossip, and complaints on the quality of cakes offered during tea.  “Is it real seed cake?”, she asks the waiter, who assures her it is, but she is highly doubtful nevertheless.

Seed cake, you ask? First appearing in cookbooks in the 17^th century, it is a type of loaf dessert, what we nowadays call a quick bread.  The main seed used is caraway, a dash of brandy to give it “class”, and while loaded with sugar and butter, it stills tends to be dry, and stick to the roof of the mouth.  It is mentioned in Charles Dickens’ David Copperfield, “Miss Lavinia and Miss Clarissa partook, in their way, of my joy. It was the pleasantest tea-table in the world. Miss Clarissa presided. I cut and handed the sweet seed-cake – the little sisters had a bird-like fondness for picking up seeds and pecking at sugar.”

Traditional British Seed Cake

(https://britishfoodhistory.com/2021/05/23/to-make-a-seed-cake/)

Ingredients:

175g butter, softened (3/4 cup)

175g caster sugar (1 cup minus 2 Tbsp.)

3 large eggs, beaten

3 tsp. caraway seeds

225g of plain flour, sifted (1 and 1/2 cups plus 1 Tbsp.)

1 tsp. baking powder

 pinch salt

1 Tbsp. ground almonds

1 Tbsp. milk

Preparation:

Preheat the oven to 180*C/350*F/ gas mark 4. Butter and line a 2-pound loaf tin with baking paper. Set aside.

Cream together the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Beat in the eggs, one at a time.

Sift together the flour and baking powder. Stir this in along with the salt, almonds, seeds and milk. Mix well to combine evenly. Scrape into the prepared baking tin.

Bake for 45 to 55 minutes, or until well risen, golden brown and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.

Allow to cool completely in the tin. Store in an airtight container. Cut into slices to serve.

Makes one loaf.

Now, why hubby and I happen to enjoy watching the Father Brown series, surprise, surprise, Mrs. McCarthy’s “award winning strawberry scones” are no where to be found in G. K. Chesterton’s written novels.  Do not be put off by the lack of recipe information though; and try this recipe from Our Sunday Visitor.  While typically a strawberry scone, in Britain, is a plain triangular scone, topped with strawberry jam and clotted cream; the television series showed a more “American” version.  The “scone” is more the typical southern style biscuit with whipped cream and fresh, sliced strawberries.  Oh, but please try them with jam and clotted cream and you will not be disappointed in the least.

Mrs. McCarthy’s Award-Winning Strawberry Scones

(https://www.oursundayvisitor.com/tea-with-chesterton-the-mystery-of-father-browns-strawberry-scones/)

Ingredients:

2 cups flour

4 tsp. baking powder

3 Tbsp. sugar

1/2 tsp. salt

6 Tbsp. butter, at room temperature

2/3 cup milk (or 1/3 cup milk and 1/3 cup cream), plus 2 Tbsp. for brushing

1 large egg, fork-whisked

English clotted cream and strawberry jam (to serve)

1/2 pound of fresh strawberries, washed and sliced

Preparation:

Preheat your oven to 425F, line a sheet pan with parchment paper.

In a large mixing bowl, add flour, baking powder, sugar and salt, and whisk to combine.

Cut the butter into soft chunks and add to the dry ingredients, pinching in with your fingers until the mixture resembles coarse sand.

Add the strawberries and stir slightly.

Make a well in the center of the dough, add the egg, milk and cream (or just milk) and fork-whisk to combine. 

Gently stir the wet ingredients through the dry, and then lightly crunch with your hands to bring everything together. The dough should be soft but not too sticky.

Lightly flour a workspace and roll the dough out to a 1-inch thickness.

Cut with a 3-inch round or fluted biscuit cutter.  

Brush the tops with milk, and bake 13-15 minutes until fluffy and turning golden on top.

Serve with clotted cream and strawberry jam (adding more freshly sliced strawberries doesn’t hurt).

Makes 8.

So, as Hercule Poirot would say, “Mon Ami, the screens you stare at, that stop all movement of the eyes, no..no..no.  Pick up the book, allow the eyes to move as they read the words, and feed the little grey cells.”

Mary Cokenour 

 

 

The Movable Feast of the Resurrection.

Easter is celebrated on the first Sunday following the first ecclesiastical full moon (the "Paschal Full Moon") that occurs on or after March 21 (the fixed spring equinox). This date is determined by lunar and solar cycles rather than a fixed calendar date, so Easter Sunday always falls between March 22 and April 25, and is considered a “movable feast”.

Easter is a major Christian holiday based on the resurrection of Jesus Christ three days after his crucifixion.  The primary source of historical information of this event is biblical, the New Testament, written by Christ’s apostles, Matthew, Mark, Luke, John.  There are other documents that mention the event, but not as highly written about than in the New Testament.   Early Christians celebrated the resurrection weekly; it was not until 325 ADE that an annual festival was formalized by the Council of Nicaea.  The name, Easter, came from Eostre (or Ostara), an Anglo-Saxon Pagan goddess of spring and fertility celebrated in April.  As Christianity spread, pagan traditions were incorporated to enable a smoother transition for the newly indoctrinated.

Two symbols of the pagan celebration are eggs and rabbits, definitely signifying fertility.  Painting eggs red symbolized the blood of Christ, with the shell representing the tomb. Rabbits, however, ended up becoming stew meat.  It was not until the 17^th century that German immigrants brought the tradition of the "Osterhase" (Easter Hare from German Protestant folklore) to America, a creature that laid eggs for well-behaved children to find in nests.

But, before the spread of Christianity, what did the followers of Christ, after his resurrection, serve at the weekly feasts? 

Roasted Lamb: The central dish, symbolizing Jesus's sacrifice, and his being the "Lamb of God" who takes away the sins of the world.

Baked Goods: Hot cross buns, often eaten on Good Friday, represent the crucifixion.

Bitter Herbs and Charoset: Reflecting the Passover roots of the celebration, these include herbs like horseradish, and a fruit/nut paste.

Stewed Beans/Legumes: A traditional, slow-cooked dish like cholent (bean stew).

Fish: Commonly eaten as part of the post-resurrection tradition.

Olives, Figs, and Herbs: Common staple foods of the region.

Eggs: As mentioned above.  The decorated types did not come about until the Easter Hare came to America.

 

Globally, foods used for the celebration changed due to what was available in the area.  Basically, though, it involves the slow-cooking of beef or lamb, with local vegetables, herbs, and, depending on the region, ingredients like red wine, beer, and/or spices.  The recipe I will share is one traditionally served in those earlier years, Cholent.

Cholent is a traditional, slow-cooked savory stew originating from Ashkenazi Jewish cuisine, designed to simmer overnight for 12–18 hours.  It features ingredients of either beef or lamb, potatoes, beans, barley, and onions, resulting in a rich, comforting flavor.

 

Cholent

Ingredients:

2 pounds medium red potatoes, peeled and halved  

2 small onions, chopped

3 lbs. beef roast, or lamb, cut into 2-inch pieces

1 cup dried chickpeas, soak for one hour in warm water, rinse

1/2 cup pearl barley, soak with chickpeas  

2 Tbsp. minced garlic

1-quart low sodium beef broth

2 cups water

1 Tbsp. kosher salt

1/2 tsp. ground black pepper 

1 and 1/2 tsps. paprika

1 and 1/2 tsps. turmeric

1 tsp. cumin

1 kishke - optional

Notes of Interest:

What is kishke? Kishke (or kishka) is a traditional Ashkenazi Jewish dish, often called "stuffed derma", consisting of beef or fowl intestines stuffed with a mixture of matzo meal, schmaltz (chicken fat), onion, celery, carrots, and seasonings.  

Is Jewish kishke and Scottish haggis the same?  While similar in concept and texture, they differ in ingredients: kishke typically uses flour/matzo meal and schmaltz, while traditional haggis uses sheep’s organ meat and oats.

Preparation:

In a 6-quart crock pot, begin layering the ingredients – potatoes, onions, meat, chickpeas/barley mix.  In a large bowl, mix together the garlic, beef broth, water and seasonings; pour evenly over ingredients in the crock pot.

Cover crock pot, set on low and let cook for 12-16 hours.

Optional cooking method: To cook this recipe in the oven, layer the ingredients in a large heavy -duty 8-quart Dutch oven. Make sure liquid just covers all ingredients. Cover with lid and cook at 200F for 12-16 hours.

Makes 12 servings.

 

 

While many families have the addition of Easter bread (bread braid with colored, hard-boiled eggs inserted where bread crosses) at their table, hot cross buns have a place of importance.  Hot cross buns, traditionally eaten on Good Friday, mark the end of Lent, with the cross representing the Crucifixion of Jesus. The spices symbolize those used to embalm Christ, while their history blends Christian symbolism with older pagan traditions honoring spring, rebirth, and fertility.

Religious Symbolism: The cross on top represents the cross on which Jesus died, and the spices represent the spices used in his burial. 

End of Lent: Traditionally, these buns were eaten to mark the end of the fasting season, as they were often made without dairy (before modern recipes).

Pagan Origins: The tradition predates Christianity, with Saxons baking buns marked with a cross to honor the goddess of spring, Eostre, representing the 4 seasons, or the rebirth of the world.

Folklore and Superstition: It was believed that hot cross buns baked on Good Friday would not mold for a year, would protect against fire (when hung in the kitchen), and bring good luck to sailors.

So, this year, while your family probably has its traditions, think about going back in time and prepare what might have been served during the Resurrection celebration then.  Think of it as a culinary education on what was eaten at that time, and why.

Mary Cokenour 

Holiday Spices Elicit Memories of Comfort.

Comfort foods remind us of the innocence of childhood, and the wonders of all.  All?  Yes, the taste, texture, sight and smell, especially during the “Ber” months are filled with it.  A warm bowl of buttery mashed potatoes slowly moves along the tongue, down the throat and into the belly.  The feeling of fullness, the taste of the butter, milk and potatoes surrounds us like a warm blanket cloaked over our shoulders, while we gaze into a wood burning fire.

Then there are the spices that make their ways into drinks, main dishes, side dishes and desserts.  These aromatic spices elicit memories of warmth, feeling safe, loving times with friends and family, and pure comfort and joy. 

Cinnamon: The most common spice, with a warm, sweet, and woody flavor that is central to many holiday recipes.

Nutmeg: Frequently used in drinks like eggnog and in baked goods, offering a sweet, warm, and slightly spicy taste.

Ginger: Provides a tangy, warm, and spicy kick, perfect for gingerbread cookies and other holiday treats.  (I mistakenly added some to banana bread I recently made.  Oh, it brought the overall flavor up to a whole new, delicious level.)

Cloves: A classic holiday staple with a slightly bitter and peppery flavor, often used in both sweet and savory holiday dishes. (gives a lively kick to baked goods)

Allspice: Combines the flavors of cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg, adding a warm and sweet profile to dishes like mulled wine and baked goods. (often found in apple pie or pumpkin pie mixes)

Cardamom: Known for its complex, floral, and sweet flavor, it is a popular ingredient in many European and Middle Eastern holiday recipes. (wonderful in apple cider donuts and carrot cake)

Star Anise: Features a smoky, woodsy flavor and a star shape, making it a popular addition to mulled wine and other spiced beverages.

Vanilla: Adds a sweet and rich flavor, essential for many holiday desserts. Make sure to use pure vanilla, not imitation.

Go back into the San Juan Record, or my food blog, archives to November 2, 2016 and you will find recipes for Snickerdoodle cookies, their origin history, and another recipe for Pumpkin Snickerdoodle cookies.  Cinnamon is the main spice used in snickerdoodles, but I don’t believe in settling; not even with my own recipes.

For this “Ber” month of November, I umpped up the recipe to make muffins filled with, not just cinnamon, but nutmeg and cloves.  They are sweet, the cloves giving a hint of a kick to the taste buds, and the sugar-cinnamon topping is slightly crispy while the muffin texture is tender.  Delicious as is, but warm up one, split it in half, place in a bowl and add a scoop of vanilla ice cream.  A taste of heaven without going there.

 

Snickerdoodle Muffins

Ingredients:

2 sticks (1 cup) unsalted butter, softened

1 cup sugar (or equivalent sugar substitute)

2 tsp. vanilla

2 eggs

3/4 tsp. baking soda

3/4 tsp. baking powder

3/4 tsp. cream of tartar

3/4 tsp. each ground cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves

1 and 1/4 cups sour cream

2 and 1/4 cups all-purpose flour (+1/4 cup for high altitude)

1/3 cup + 1/8 cup (6 tsps.) sugar (or equivalent sugar substitute) and 1 Tbsp. ground cinnamon, mixed together for topping.

Preparation:

Preheat oven to 350F, place paper liners in muffin tins (18 cups).

 

 

Cream the butter and sugar until soft and golden colored, stir in vanilla. Add in eggs one at a time and mix until each is well incorporated.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, baking powder, cream of tartar and spices.  Add half flour mixture plus half sour cream to butter mixture, fold in until flour is all incorporated.  Repeat with other half of flour and sour cream. Batter will be moist, but not overly dense.

 

 

 

 

Using a 2-inch-wide ice cream scoop, scoop out batter into each paper cup.  Sprinkle one teaspoon of sugar-cinnamon mixture over top, and down sides, of batter.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bake for 22-25 minutes, until tops are golden brown, and toothpick inserted in center comes out cleanly.  Let muffins rest for 10 minutes before moving to platter.  For storage, in plastic bag, muffins will last 5 days.  Or, wrap in aluminum foil, place in freezer bag, and store for up to 3 months in a freezer.

 

Looking down at the muffins, the tops look just like snickerdoodle cookies.

Makes 18 muffins.

For a Quick Bread

Divide batter into two 8-inch loaf pans, bake for 45-50 minutes; or until tops are golden brown, and toothpick in center comes out cleanly.  Resting and storage are same as for muffins.

Mary Cokenour