When it comes to the cuisines of New Orleans, most are familiar with those of French Creole or Cajun descent. However, between 1880s and 1920s, a wave of Italian immigrants made their way down to Louisiana, primarily New Orleans. At first, they were the major traders and providers of fruit, opening stalls in the French Market and the Poydras Market. The majority of these Italian immigrants came from Sicily, and with fishing being a primary industry, they eventually began to run the docks and wharves.
So, it was not a surprise that shops and stalls began to open that provided a look-see into Sicilian cuisine. Within the Central Market area was a little community named “Little Palermo” which offered many foods, condiments, spices, and other ingredients associated with Sicily’s food culture. In 1906, Salvatore Lupo opened his shop, Central Grocery with breads, meats cheeses and an olive-vegetable spread. But he decided to go one better than offering items separately; he decided to create a sandwich that would one up any other meat and cheese simple sandwich. Taking a round loaf of “muffuletto” bread, oh, wait, I better explain what this bread is.
Alright, remember in the March 12, 2025 edition of the San Juan Record, the article on Irish Soda Bread, and I mentioned other types of round crusty breads? Muffuletto is, again, a round loaf, but the exterior and interior are both soft, it is covered in sesame seeds, and of Sicilian origin. Though it is round, it does not rise to the point of being dome-like, so thinner, and makes it easier to compress down when making a “loaded” sandwich. The word muffuletto loosely translates, in Sicilian, as “soft and spongy bread”, while “muffe” means “mold or mushroom” as the bread loaf resembles a mushroom cap.
Now to the sandwich that Lupo created; cutting the bread in half lengthwise, the cut sides had an olive-vegetable spread generously spread to the ends. Then layers of various meats and provolone cheese were built up atop one side of the bread, and topped with the other side. The sandwich was then compressed, allowing the liquid of the spread to seep, not just into the bread, but the meats and cheese as well. Basically a 6-inch-thick sandwich became a 3-inch thinner sandwich, after compression, and having the cheese melt during the process helped keeping it all together. The sandwich was wrapped tightly in parchment paper to hold it together, as well, until ready to be eaten.
A traditional muffaletta sandwich features a combination of Genoa salami, mortadella, and a sliced ham, plus provolone cheese. However, other meats can be substituted or added to give a greater taste explosion.
Genoa salami - dry-cured sausage made from coarsely ground pork and seasoned with garlic, salt, and black pepper.
Mortadella - cured pork sausage containing chopped pistachios
Capicola - Italian dry-cured ham aged for several months.
Soppressata - Italian dry-cured salami, seasoned with spices of chili peppers, garlic, and cracked black pepper.
Prosciutto - dry-cured ham made from the hind legs of the pig; the flavor is sweet and salty.
Other meats that can also be used - sopressa, pepperoni, coppa, or speck.
After making this sandwich, my hubby shared it with one of his friends, and they were both blown away by the flavors and textures. The recipe I will be sharing lists all the meats I used for this creation.
If muffuletto bread cannot be found in any bakery or market, there is many a recipe out there for making at home. Careful though, I have seen many recipes do the “bake at high temperature, then reduce to a lower, but still high temperature” instruction, then “bake till golden brown and sounds hollow when tapped”. Those instructions are fine if the intention is a high-dome bread that is crusty on the outside. Otherwise, when shopping, try to find a round loaf that is soft on the outside and not as high-dome, as say, a French Boule.
Here is a recipe for making a Muffaletta, also written as Muffuletta, Sandwich which happens to be one of the most beloved and iconic sandwiches, along with the Po’boy, of New Orleans. Why? It was invented in the “Big Easy” of course!
Muffaletta Sandwich
Ingredients:
Olive-Vegetable Spread
3/4 cup pitted mixed oil-packed olives, do not drain
1/2 cup giardiniera (Italian-style pickled vegetable salad), do not drain1/4 cup chopped roasted red peppers
2 Tbsp. dried, crushed parsley leaves
1 tsp. minced garlic
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
1 large muffaletta-style roll (round Italian bread or ciabatta, soft exterior, 9-inch diameter)
Divide meats and cheese into thirds.
1/3 lb. thinly sliced soppressata1/3 lb. thinly sliced mortadella
1/3 lb. thinly sliced capicola
1/3 lb. thinly sliced prosciutto
¾ lb. thinly sliced provolone cheese
Preparation:
Combine olives, giardiniera, peppers, parsley and garlic into food processor or blender; chop until no pieces larger than 1/4-inch remain. Transfer to bowl; add olive oil and vinegar; stir to combine. Place in refrigerator for two hours to allow absorption of oil and vinegar into vegetables.
Split bread in half lengthwise; spread each cut surface generously with vegetable spread. Begin layering one-third of meats and cheese, ending with cheese. Carefully place top half of bread on top; press down gently to compress. Wrap tightly in plastic, place in refrigerator, place heavy weight on top to keep compressing the sandwich for one hour. Cut into triangular wedges to serve.
Olive Vegetable Spread on Open Sides of Bread. |
Begin Layering - Cheese, Meats. |
Continue Layering, Ending with Cheese |
Place Top Half of Bread on top. |
Compress Down. |
Wrap and Place Weight on top to continue compressing. |
Sandwich After Compression. |
Muffaletta Cut in Half. |
Serves 4-6.
Mary-letta Sandwich. |
Italian not your style, and prefer something more “American”? Instead of the meats listed, use a combination of thinly sliced roast beef, oven roasted turkey or chicken, and Black Forest or honey ham. For the cheese, use thinly sliced baby Swiss cheese. The olive-vegetable spread will still work well, or spread a light layer of horseradish sauce and pickle relish on both cut sides of the bread. Remember to still do the compression and resting stages, so all the flavors can mesh together.
My husband, Roy, named this sandwich the "Mary-letta Sandwich".
Mary Cokenour