The Science of Brining.

In celebration of young children, teens, and adults returning to school, let’s talk science; the science of brining food.  I promise not to do a Thomas Dolby on you, and blind you with science.

“What is the science behind brining meat?  Osmosis is the diffusion of water through a semi-permeable membrane - in this case the meat cells. Through diffusion, the salt and water within the meat cells balance with the salt and water in the surrounding brine which results in a higher concentration of salt and water in the meat.” (https://www.kqed.org/quest/4441/the-science-behind-brining)

The typical “meat” products that benefit from brining are pork, poultry (mainly chicken and turkey), and some types of fish (cod, salmon, swordfish).  Why brine?  The process is not simply an exchange of salt and water.  It also causes a breakdown of muscle fibers, and a loosening of protein, which is essentially the process for tenderization.  Afterwards, when seasoning is added, the “meat” absorbs more, and distributes throughout.

The process of brining, aka pickling, can be traced back to 2400BCE, in ancient Mesopotamia.  This was a main method of food preservation, since refrigeration was basically slim to none.  Yes, clay pots could be coated on the inside, buried deep into the ground, or within tombs; but again, not widely available to the masses. 

Brining was not always a “wet method” either, as “dry brining” is the application of thick layers of salt.  Take, for example, baccala; dried and salted cod, often referred to as salt cod, saltfish or salt dolly.  This fish is usually served, in Italian culture, on Christmas Eve, during the Feast of the Seven Fishes.  The precooking prep is lengthy; “At least two days prior to cooking (but we recommend 3 days), you should begin soaking your salted baccalà in fresh water (at least 36-48 hours). First wash the pieces thoroughly, eliminating all the salt on the surface, and then completely submerge in any container that will hold a lot of water; change the water at least three times a day (every eight hours or even more frequently). “(https://www.delallo.com/blog/how-to-christmas-eve-baccal/)

When it comes to pork, it benefits from brining as it can be very bland in taste, and very tough if overcooked.  Now, once brined, do not be turned off by the whitish and pruney texture of the meat.  Remember, after sitting in water too long, we humans tend to look exactly like that.  After pigs, to cannibals, we are “the other white meat”.

Anyway, pork ribs are the number one section, of the pig, that is usually seen on a grill.  However, pork chops and tenderloins can be a delicious addition to your grilling repertoire.  The average pork tenderloin is 1 to 1 and ½ lbs., looks like a footlong cylinder, and has very little fat, if trimmed correctly by the butcher.  Packages of 2 to 3 lbs. typically contain 2 tenderloins of close to equal weight.  Brining, marinating in a dry rub, and slow roasting on the grill will create a tender, juicy meat packed with flavor.  As with ribs, adding a barbecue sauce is an option.  We usually do as it enhances the flavor of any side dish inhabiting the fork, at the same time as the meat.  The flavors and textures blend in the mouth, and Boom! a full culinary explosion!

 

Dry Rub BBQ Pork Tenderloin

 

Ingredients:

3 lb. package (2-1 and ½ lbs. sections) pork tenderloin

For the Brine

Water

2 Tbsp. salt

¼ cup white wine vinegar

For the Dry Rub

1 cup brown sugar

½ tsp. ground black pepper

2 tsp. paprika

2 tsp. New Mexico chile powder

 

BBQ Sauce - Sweet Baby Ray’s Honey Barbecue or Sweet and Spicy

Preparation:

Place the pork in a large, sealable plastic container; add enough water to cover.  Sprinkle salt over the water, and pour in vinegar; cover, place in refrigerator for 12 hours, or overnight.

Mix together all ingredients for dry rub.  Lay out two pieces of plastic wrap, at least 4 inches longer than each tenderloin.  Spoon a line of dry rub over center of each piece of wrap; place tenderloin over rub; sprinkle remaining rub over top of each tenderloin.  Wrap tightly, place in refrigerator for 12 hours, or overnight.

 

 

 

 

 Preheat outdoor grill to 300F.  Place aluminum foil on grill; place tenderloin on foil, and pour any juices, from plastic wrap, over the pork.  Close grill and let cook for 15 minutes.  Open grill lid, turn pork over, close lid and cook another 15 minutes.  Open lid, turn over pork, and baste with barbeque sauce; close lid, cook for 5 minutes.  Repeat with other side of tenderloins.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Remove pork to cutting board, let rest for 10 minutes before slicing. Depending on thickness of slices, each tenderloin will make 4-6 servings.

 

“She blinded me with science

(She blinded me with science!)

And hit me with technology”

(She Blinded Me With Science - Thomas Dolby) 

I just could not resist!

Mary Cokenour

 

Brats vs. Sausage, neither is the Weakest Link.

Disclaimer: No naughty children (brats) were grilled and eaten in the writing of this article.

Brats, or Bratwurst, are a grilling favorite, along with a variety of sausages containing some type of meat, usually pork or beef.  Those who do not eat animals wearing hooves, but still like a meaty texture, have chicken and turkey products.  Of course, vegetarians and vegans have plant-based products to choose from.  Whichever you fancy, there is something about grilling, whether gas, wood or charcoal, that intensifies the flavor, and enjoyment of whatever is cooked over it.

Bratwurst comes from the Old High German word “Brat,” meaning “without waste”, and “wurst,” which means “sausage.”  One recipe was traced back 600 years ago, with a list of ingredients containing scraps of the animal (usually pork or veal), seasonings (ginger, nutmeg, coriander, or caraway), and all encased within the animal’s intestine.  Nothing was wasted, as the local market did not exist, and in winter, you ate what you harvested, and had on hand due to preserving.  Nowadays, synthetic casings are used, and the quality standard of the meat is more regulated by the FDA.  Additions to the meat filling can be onions, jalapenos, cheese and even beer.  We favor beer brats as it gives a heady flavor and aids the meat in retaining its juices during cooking.

While bratwurst is a type of sausage, chronologically it is quite a young food invention.  The origin of sausages dates back to 3100 BCE, Mesopotamia (home of modern-day Iraq, Kuwait and a portion of Saudi Arabia), and the founders of man’s cultural history, the Sumerians.  Preserving blood, organs, and small scraps of meat, encased in the stomachs and intestines of the slaughtered animal; sausages were easy to carry, and eaten by hand.

Greece, in 8^th BCE, might have seen their warriors, of the Trojan War, feeding on this food, since it is mentioned in Homer’s, The Odyssey. During the 9^th BCE, sausages were often served as a treat while plays were performed.  Sausages made their way to Rome during the first century ADE, and was a featured meal during celebrations to the Gods and Goddesses.  However, in 320 ADE, Emperor Constantine I, and the Catholic Church, banned sausage eating due to the association to pagan festivals

It was not until the 1600s when King Charles 1, of England, declared sausages to be “legal” once again.  During WW2, they earned the nickname of “bangers” as they tended to explode with a “bang!” when fried.  Mmm, bangers and mash is a fine, fine meal indeed! Oh, what is “mash”, well mashed potatoes of course.

Like brats, sausages can be made from any meat or poultry, or not; added in vegetables, fruits such as apples and raisins, herbs, spices, and even different chiles dependent on the heat desired.  They can be in links or loose form; the links can be fresh, dried or smoked.

Now whether it is brats or sausages, we find that grilling brings out the best of their flavors.

Slowly turning over a medium-low flame, a delicate char forms.  When are they done? Use a fork or skewer to poke a small hole into the center; if the liquid runs clear, it is ready to eat.

 

A favorite side is peppers and onions; julienned red and green bell peppers, and white or yellow onions.  In a skillet, on low heat, smear enough olive oil to cover the bottom of the pan.  Add in the vegetables plus a couple of dashes of salt, ground black pepper and minced garlic.  Mix up occasionally to make sure the vegetables do not stick to the bottom of the pan and do not burn.  The vegetables should be softened, but still have a slight firmness around the edges.

 

Note: there might be times you cannot grill outside.  You can achieve similar results with the brats or sausages by cooking them inside a heavy-duty skillet, or, better yet, a cast iron skillet.  The vegetables can be cooked with the meat, but keep an eye on them to make sure they do not stick or burn.

 

We enjoy a nicely toasted bun, a brat, or sausage, is bedded down inside and a blanket of sauteed peppers and onions covers from head to toe.  That first bite finds the char of the meat mixing with the sweetness of the vegetables; the bread adding a smooth texture overall.

So, brat vs. sausage, there is really no contest, and the person eating either wins the grand prize!

Mary Cokenour

 

 

 

 

 

Kabobing with the Greeks

According to the calendar, the season of spring began on March 19^th this year, a day earlier than usual, and in a leap year as well.  Overall, the year 2020 has been a challenge for its first four months, and we’re all wondering where the reset button is.  Weather wise, many states, including Utah, were still seeing cold temperatures, snow and hail.

Then May 1^st came, Beltane, the midpoint between the beginning of spring and summer.  The ancient Celtic meaning is “bright fire”, so what better way to celebrate then to barbecue!  With the pandemic continuing, rules of engagement constantly changing, and challenging; it can be difficult to cope in a positive way.

Go outside!  Yes, you can still be safe, at home, but outside in your own backyard, or on the front lawn, on the balcony or patio.  But, go outside!  Look up, see the clouds, what forms can you imagine?  Look at the plant life, flowering buds on the trees, small leaves unfolding to capture dew drops and shafts of sunlight.

This is personal mental and emotional nourishment; food for the mind and soul.  With the body itself, time to fire up the grill and imagine the culinary possibilities.  Of cooking food…not your body!  Come on now, no one can possibly be at the point of cannibalism yet!?!

Let’s take it to the Greeks, and grill up kabobs, or what they refer to as Souvlaki.

Souvlaki (plural is Souvlakia) is a diminutive of the Greek souvla (spit), and there is evidence that cooking with skewers originated in Greece.  One excavation of the archaeological site Akrotiri, on the Greek island of Santorini,  revealed stone sets of barbecues for skewers (Greek: krateutai) used before the 17th century BCE.  Alright kiddies, quiz time, Akrotiri was a Minoan Bronze Age settlement on the volcanic Greek island of Santorini (Thera).  What mythological creature lived in a maze, underneath the king’s palace?  (Insert Jeopardy theme music)  Time is up!  The Minotaur.

Back to Souvlaki, small pieces of meat or poultry, sometimes vegetables are included, which are grilled on a skewer.  The grilled food can be eaten right off the skewer or pulled off onto a warm pita bread to make a sandwich.  If you are looking more for a dinner entree, place the souvlaki over rice or orzo (pasta shaped like rice).  The warm pita bread, broken into pieces, can act as a utensil.

This is a simple and easy meal that can be prepared for sports oriented children (once it begins again).  Get them home after their event and while they are cleaning up, you can be getting together this healthy meal for them.  Chicken, firm cuts of seafood, and pork can be used instead of beef.  Vegetarians can indulge by substituting tofu, or chunks of beefy tasting, Portobella (also spelled Portabella or Portobello) mushrooms, for the protein, plus adding a larger variety of vegetables.

The marinade for the Souvlakia is simply lemon juice, olive oil, salt, pepper, parsley and garlic. The lemon juice helps to break down the connective tissue in the proteins; tenderness is assured after grilling or oven roasting.  For my recipe, I added capers for a little twang on the tongue.

Beef and Vegetable Souvlaki

Ingredients:

1 lb. beef cubes, trimmed of fat

1 lb. mini sweet peppers, cut in half and seeded

1 large onion, chopped

½ lb. small button mushrooms

¼ cup lemon juice

½ cup olive oil

2 Tbsp. minced garlic

½ tsp. each of fine sea salt and ground black pepper

2 Tbsp. minced parsley

1 tsp. capers

Preparation:

In a large plastic container, combine all ingredients thoroughly; seal and refrigerate overnight.

If grilling, alternate beef cubes and vegetables on skewers. Soak wooden skewers in water for 30 minutes first to avoid burning.  Place on medium-high preheated grill; cook for 6 minutes before turning skewers; cook another 6 minutes before serving.

If roasting, preheat oven to 450F. Place beef, vegetables and remaining marinade into a large roasting pan, or onto a large jelly roll pan, in a single layer.  Cook for 3 minutes, turn beef; repeat; on 3rd turn of beef, also turn vegetables (this will allow for beef and vegetables to caramelize); turn beef a 4th time, cook for 3 minutes.

Makes 4 – 6 servings.

Mary Cokenour

By the way, we had this on May 12, 2020, and here are a few photos of that delicious meal.

Kabobs ready for the grill, Greek marinade for basting.

After Grilling

Kabobs, Squash cooked with salt, cracked black pepper and butter, Naan Bread, Feta Cheese

Roy's dinner plate is full.

Summer is Here and the Grilling is Easy.

On June 20^th, the Summer Solstice marked the beginning of summer, and yet the shortening of daylight.  While it is the longest time of sunlight for the year; the very next day the sun’s rays begin to shorten upon the Northern Hemisphere.  In olden cultures, and even in many today, this Solstice is a day of celebration; the Earth’s fertility is in full swing.

Summertime is also when schools are closed; children are free from the tortures within classrooms dominated by whip wielding teachers.  Well, that’s how they imagine school to be while the teachers see it just the other way round.  Summer is freedom; family vacations to new and exciting places; reunions in mountain or lakeside resorts; casting responsibility aside for days or weeks.   Best of all, outdoor cooking!!!  Grills, whether gas, electric, wood or charcoal are fired up; Smokers prepped with soaked, aroma filled wood.  Meats of all kinds, poultry, seafood; all rubbed and/or marinated to bring flavors to the wildest taste buds. 

Even vegetables are given special treatment to tempt the pickiest of eaters.  Try a nice side dish of one pound sliced mushrooms seasoned with sea salt, ground black pepper and garlic; equal amounts of olive oil and butter; slowly sautéed over low heat for a half hour.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our grill has been pulled out from winter storage, cleaned, propane tank fully filled.  Inside the refrigerator, tightly wrapped in a double layer of heavy duty aluminum foil are…pork ribs.  Each meaty morsel has been rubbed with my All Purpose Rub; for 15 hours they marinate in the juices draw out by brown sugar and a selection of spices.  The grill will be then heated to 250F; the entire aluminum package laid upon the top rack for three hours.  Fat melting into meat; self-basting, self-tenderizing, slowly caramelizing.  Carefully unwrapped from the foil cocoon; the grill’s heat turned up to 400F; the ribs will go onto the lower rack for searing and glazing; a crisp char around the edges.  The meat tender, juicy, with just the right amount of give from the bone; sweet, savory, spicy all come together for delicious nirvana.

 

Remove excess fat from underside.

One cup of rub mixture for underside.

One cup of rub mixture for topside.

Massage the rub into the meat.

Double layer of heavy duty foil; fold ends over first.

Wrap long ends over each other; refrigerate for 15 hours.

Entire package on top rack; 250F for three hours.

Remove from foil.

Increase heat to 400F; sear both sides.

 

Perhaps, after a well-deserved nap, we’ll go on up to Loyd’s Lake for a cool swim; that is if we can get off the couch.   Ah yes, summer is here and it’s time for life to be a bit easy.

 

 

All Purpose Rub for Smoking and Grilling

 

Ingredients:

2 cups brown sugar

1 tsp. each sea salt, ground black pepper, ground ginger
¼ tsp. ground cayenne pepper
1 Tbsp. each paprika, onion powder, garlic powder

Preparation:

In medium bowl, mix all ingredients together thoroughly. Rub onto all sides of meat or poultry; refrigerate overnight. Smoke or grill.

Note: This is enough to cover both sides of a 3 to 4 pound rack of ribs.

 

Bonus Recipe!

All Purpose Barbeque Sauce

Ingredients:

2 Tbsp. peanut oil (if not available, use canola oil)

1 small onion, diced
1Tbsp minced garlic
1 ½ cups crushed tomatoes
1 (6oz) can tomato paste
½ cup apple cider vinegar
½ cup water
1/3 cup brown sugar
3 Tbsp. chili powder
1 Tbsp. ground horseradish
¼ tsp. ground cayenne pepper
1 tsp. each salt and ground black pepper
¼ cup Worcestershire sauce
¼ cup dark molasses

Preparation:

In a large saucepan, heat oil on medium-high heat; sauté onion and garlic till softened; be careful not to burn garlic. Add in remaining ingredients, stir together and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and let simmer for 30 minutes; sauce will thicken. Stir occasionally to keep from sticking or burning. If sauce thickens too much, stir in a tablespoon of water until desired consistency is achieved.

Use warm or cold; store in refrigerator in airtight container; will keep for up to 2 weeks.

Makes 2 cups.

 

Mary Cokenour