A Big Pot of Louisiana Cuisine

Halloween has come and gone, and the dentists’ offices are making appointments by the boatload.  All those sugary treats definitely played tricks on the teeth of many.  The next autumn holiday, sorry, yes, we are still, technically, in the fall season, is Thanksgiving.  Typically, we will begin seeing recipes on turkey, green bean casserole, stuffing/dressing, sweet potatoes and pumpkin pie.  We have our family favorites; we do the traditional Thanksgiving array. So, I am going down the road less traveled once again, and giving you something completely different.

Creole Cuisine originated in Louisiana, primarily in the New Orleans area; it is a melting pot of various cuisines: French, Portuguese, Spanish, Canadian (the Acadians, known for “Cajun” cuisine), Caribbean, Italian, Greek, Southern USA Native American, West Indies and African. These cultures were able to come together due to the various slave trade routes; the enslaved people brought, not just their cultures to the United States, but their cuisines.

A basic ingredient for many Creole dishes is a roux. A roux, French for “brown sauce,” is a base used for gravies and sauces in Creole cuisine.  When making a roux, using a saucepan or a skillet is dependent upon what recipe is being made, and how much is needed. It begins with equal parts of a fat (oil, butter, lard, etc.) and flour; the fat is heated on medium heat. The flour is stirred in until well incorporated and the mixture is smooth. The color of the roux is dependent upon the flavor desired for the recipe, so can be lightly browned to dark brown; this can take 15-30 minutes. The mixture must be continually stirred and watched; if any black flakes appear, it has burned and must be started over. Once the desired color is achieved, additional ingredients can then be added such as broth (stock), milk, cream, herbs, seasonings, etc.

Jambalaya is a Louisiana classic which can be claimed by the Creoles when it has tomatoes in it, or the Cajuns when it does not. Either way, jambalaya consists of rice that has been cooked with shrimp, oysters, spicy sausage, ham, or chicken; seasoned with spices and herbs.  It is similar to Spanish paella, popular at fairs and social events, and can be easily made in large quantities. It can be also equated to the children's story, "Stone Soup" where a little bit of this and that added to a large pot makes a wonderful meal for all. Any way you want to look at jambalaya, it is a classic feast that pleases everyone.

 

Jambalaya

 Ingredients:

4 Tbsp. peanut oil

½ lb. spicy sausage (Chorizo, Andouille or hot Italian), cut into ½ pieces

½ lb. boneless, skinless chicken breast, cut into ½” pieces

½ cup each of diced celery, onion, red bell pepper

1 Tbsp. minced garlic

1 Tbsp. each minced fresh leaves of sage, thyme and parsley

1 (28 oz.) can diced tomatoes

1 (6 oz.) can tomato paste

2 diced jalapeno peppers

2 cups chicken broth

1 cup long grain rice

½ lb. large shrimp, shelled and deveined

¼ cup diced green onion

Preparation:

In a large, deep skillet; heat oil on medium-high heat; brown sausage and chicken pieces; about 7 minutes. Mix in celery, onion, bell pepper, garlic and herbs; let cook for 5 minutes.

Mix in tomatoes, paste, jalapenos, broth and rice; bring to a boil. Stir together, cover and reduce heat to low; let cook for 30 minutes. Add in shrimp and cook additional 5 minutes. Garnish with diced green onion.

Makes 6 servings.

Now, since jambalaya can be either Creole or Cajun influenced, here is something simply Creole, again, easy to create, and so very delicious in texture and flavor.  First things first, the seasoning mixture to make it all come together.

Creole Seasoning Mix

While salt is usually part of this mix; it is up to the person making it to decide how much to put in. If you like it salty, start with two tablespoons and add more if desired; or add less, or leave it out altogether; the cook is the boss.

Ingredients:

2 Tbsp. each of onion powder, garlic powder, dried oregano and dried basil

1 Tbsp. each of dried thyme, black and white peppercorns, dried cayenne pepper and celery seed

5 Tbsp. paprika

Preparation:

Using a blender, food processor, mortar and pestle or coffee grinder (labelled for herbs and spices only); grind all the ingredients together till well blended. Store in an air tight container. Makes 1 cup.

 

Shrimp Creole

This dish is often served over rice, but can be served over grits, polenta or mashed potatoes.

Ingredients:

3 Tbsp. olive oil

½ cup each of diced green bell peppers, onions and celery

1 Tbsp. minced garlic

3 Tbsp. flour

1 (14 oz) can diced tomatoes

1 (14 oz) can crushed tomatoes

1 Tbsp. hot sauce (add more if more heat desired)

1 Tbsp. Creole Seasoning Mix (add more if more spice desired)

2 lbs. medium shrimp, peeled and deveined (Yes!  Chicken can be used instead)

Preparation:

In a large skillet, on medium heat, heat oil; add in peppers, onions, celery and garlic; sauté for 10 minutes. Add in flour and stir till well incorporated.

Add in tomatoes and hot sauce; reduce heat to low and cover; cook for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add in seasoning mix and shrimp; cook an additional 5 minutes (shrimp will turn pink and be opaque inside).

Makes 8 servings.

The other cuisine, that is a staple of Louisiana, is Cajun. While Creole is a hodgepodge of different backgrounds, Cajuns hail from their Canadian ancestors, the Acadians.

I was introduced to Cajun cuisine by a former neighbor of mine, David Prudhomme, who happens to be a nephew of the famous chef, Paul Prudhomme. David, and his wife Sharon, owned The Lost Cajun Kitchen, once located in Columbia, PA. They have since retired, sold the restaurant, but still cook up homemade Cajun dishes.  Their restaurant is where I first tried a dish that I never thought I would ever have, alligator. Alligator, if cooked properly, is tender, and I believe it tastes like shrimp.  

Here is my take on a Cajun dish, Etouffee, which means "smothered. Normally is it made with crawfish, but good luck finding them, so I used shrimp instead.

 

Etouffee

(A Cajun dish normally done with crawfish, but works well with shrimp, scallops, langoustines or lobster; only one type of shellfish or scallops should be used for this dish.)

Ingredients:

8 Tbsp. butter

½ cup each diced green bell pepper and onion

¼ cup diced green onions, including tops

5 Tbsp. flour

1 Tbsp. paprika

1/8 tsp. ground cayenne pepper (add more if more heat desired)

¼ tsp. each salt, ground black pepper, dried oregano and thyme

2 cups hot water

2 Tbsp. chopped parsley

2 Tbsp. minced garlic

1 lb. of shellfish (peeled and deveined) or scallops (foot removed)

Preparation:

Melt butter, over medium-high heat, in a large skillet; sauté bell pepper and onions until peppers are soft and onions translucent, about 10 minutes.

While vegetables are sautéing, in a small bowl mix together flour, paprika, cayenne, salt, black pepper, oregano and thyme. Stir this mixture into the skillet and continue to stir as it bubbles to keep from clumping or burning.

Add one cup of water and mix thoroughly; repeat with 2nd cup of water. Stir in parsley and garlic; bring to boil. Reduce heat to low, add in seafood, cover and let cook for 7-10 minutes, depending on seafood used.  Serve over rice.

Makes 4 servings.

Mary Cokenour

 

 

 

Kiss My Grits!!!

Remember the show "Alice" and that feisty waitress named Flo whose catch phrase was "Kiss my grits!". No, too bad, it was a pretty good show; and it made folks who had not experienced grits to wonder, "what the heck is she talking about?" In Southern USA, grits are a staple and they are made from a coarse cornmeal.

While perusing one of my many cookbooks, I came upon a recipe called "Grillades and Grits" and wondered myself, "what the heck?" A Louisana dish to help stretch cheap cuts of meat by slicing them thinly, broiling the slices and serving with a rich, spicy gravy over grits. Instead of broiling the meat, I browned them in the skillet, so the juices from the meat could be incorporated into the roux. Also, instead of plain grits containing only butter, I upped the taste by adding sharp cheddar cheese.

Separately, both dishes are enjoyable, but combine them together and Ooooo, doggy, them's good eats! Rich, spicy, melt in the mouth and oh so comforting; just the way we like it round here. So let me introduce you to Louisana Grillades and Grits.

Grillades and Grits

For the Grillades:
Ingredients:

2 lbs rump roast, 2 inch slices x ¼ inch thick
3 Tbsp canola oil
5 Tbsp flour
1 cup each diced onion and green bell pepper
1 (14.5 oz) can diced tomatoes with green chilies (mild, medium or hot)
1 ½ cups beef broth
1 Tbsp minced garlic
2 Tbsp minced parsley
2 tsp salt
1 tsp hot sauce
1 tsp minced thyme leaves

Preparation:

In a large skillet, high heat, brown the meat in the oil, about 2 minutes per side. Remove meat; add flour to liquid in skillet, quickly stirring to form a brown paste, Add the onion, bell pepper and tomatoes; stir and let simmer for 2 minutes.

Add in remaining ingredients, mix; reduce heat to low, cover and let cook for 2 hours; stirring occasionally. If gravy is too thick, add a tablespoon of broth until desired thickness achieved. If gravy is too thin, add a tablespoon of flour until desired thickness achieved.

Makes 6 servings.

Tip: Partially freeze roast, cut in half lengthwise to attain two separate pieces that can be easily sliced into the 2” x ¼” thick pieces.

For the Grits:
Ingredients:

2 ½ cups water
½ cup quick cook grits
2 Tbsp butter
½ cup shredded sharp cheddar cheese
dash each garlic and onion powders
optional: salt, add to taste

Preparation:

In small saucepan, high heat, bring water to boil; slowly stir in grits. Reduce heat to low and let cook for 10-12 minutes or until thickened; stir occasionally.

Stir in butter, cheese and seasonings; continue to cook until butter and cheese melt, about 2-3 minutes. Add salt to taste if desired.

Makes 4 servings.

Mary Cokenour

A Big Pot of Jambalaya.

Jambalaya is another Louisiana classic which, once again, can be claimed by the Creoles when it has tomatoes in it, or the Cajuns when it doesn't. Either way, Jambalaya consists of rice that has been cooked with shrimp, oysters, spicy sausage, ham, or chicken; seasoned with spices and herbs.

It is similar to Spanish paella, and is popular at fairs and social events, since it can be easily made in large quantities. It can be also equated to the children's story, "Stone Soup" where a little bit of this and that added to a large pot makes a wonderful meal for all. Anyway you want to look at Jambalaya, it's a classic feast that pleases everyone.

Jambalaya

Ingredients:

4 Tbsp peanut oil
½ lb spicy sausage (Chorizo, Andouille or hot Italian), cut into ½ pieces
½ lb boneless, skinless chicken breast, cut into ½” pieces
½ cup each of diced celery, onion, red bell pepper
1 Tbsp minced garlic
1 Tbsp each minced fresh leaves of sage, thyme and parsley
1 (28 oz) can diced tomatoes
1 (6 oz) can tomato paste
2 diced jalapeno peppers
2 cups chicken broth
1 cup long grain rice
½ lb large shrimp, shelled and deveined
¼ cup diced green onion

Preparation:

In a large, deep skillet; heat oil on medium-high heat; brown sausage and chicken pieces; about 7 minutes. Mix in celery, onion, bell pepper, garlic and herbs; let cook for 5 minutes.

Mix in tomatoes, paste, jalapenos, broth and rice; bring to a boil. Stir together, cover and reduce heat to low; let cook for 30 minutes. Add in shrimp and cook additional 5 minutes. Garnish with diced green onion.

Makes 6 servings.

Mary Cokenour
Feb 4, 1996

Cookin' Cajun.

Back on Saint Patrick's Day, I got a bit cheeky and wrote about Creole Cuisine instead of jumping onto the Irish bandwagon. Today I figured I would cover the other cuisine that is a staple of Louisiana, Cajun. Now while Creole is a hodgepodge of different backgrounds, Cajuns hail from their Canadian ancestors, the Acadians.

So, what is the big difference between Creole and Cajun cuisines? Not much really, but the rule of thumb is: if it has tomatoes in it, it's Creole, no tomatoes, it's Cajun. However, that point is still debated today, even amongst the fine folk of Louisiana, and it's an argument I have no intention of getting involved in. I just know the cuisines are good and that is all that matters to me and my taste buds.

I was introduced to Cajun Cuisine by a former neighbor of mine, David Prudhomme, who happens to be a nephew of the famous chef, Paul Prudhomme. David, and his wife Sharon, own The Lost Cajun Kitchen located in Columbia, PA. This is where I first tried a dish that I never thought I would ever have, alligator. Alligator, if cooked properly, is tender, and I believe it tastes like shrimp. If you're ever in Lancaster County, PA, take the time to go to the Prudhomme's restaurant and judge for yourself.

Here's my take on a Cajun dish, Etouffee, which means "smothered. Normally is it made with crawfish, but they are no where to be found in my area, so I used shrimp instead.

Etouffee

(A Cajun dish normally done with crawfish, but works well with shrimp, scallops, langoustines or lobster; only one type of shellfish or scallops should be used for this dish.)

Ingredients:

8 Tbsp butter
½ cup each diced green bell pepper and onion
¼ cup diced green onions, including tops
5 Tbsp flour
1 Tbsp paprika
1/8 tsp ground cayenne pepper (add more if more heat desired)
¼ tsp each salt, ground black pepper, dried oregano and thyme
2 cups hot water
2 Tbsp chopped parsley
2 Tbsp minced garlic
1 lb of shellfish (peeled and deveined) or scallops (foot removed)

Preparation:

Melt butter, over medium-high heat, in a large skillet; sauté bell pepper and onions until peppers are soft and onions translucent, about 10 minutes.

While vegetables are sautéing, in a small bowl mix together flour, paprika, cayenne, salt, black pepper, oregano and thyme. Stir this mixture into the skillet and continue to stir as it bubbles to keep from clumping or burning.

Add one cup of water and mix thoroughly; repeat with 2nd cup of water. Stir in parsley and garlic; bring to boil. Reduce heat to low, add in seafood, cover and let cook for 7-10 minutes, depending on seafood used.

Serve over rice.

Makes 4 servings.

Mary Cokenour

Creole Cuisine; nope, it's not Irish.

Today is Saint Patrick's Day, a day the Irish celebrate for the patron saint of Ireland. In New York, 5th Avenue is shut down for the yearly parade; it's celebrated in many other places throughout the United States. My family is not of Irish descent, so have never celebrated this "holiday". "Green eggs and ham" is a Dr. Seuss story; I don't drink beer, so don't care what color it's dyed. As far as I'm concerned, it's just another day in my life. If someone is irked that I'm not celebrating, all I have to ask is, "Why does what I do matter so much to you?"

So, I'm going down the road less traveled once again, and giving you something completely different.

Creole Cuisine

Creole Cuisine originated in Louisiana, primarily in the New Orleans area; it is a melting pot of various cuisines: French, Portuguese, Spanish, Canadian (the Acadians, known for “Cajun” cuisine), Caribbean, Italian, Greek, Southern USA Native American, West Indies and African. These cultures were able to come together due to the various slave trade routes; the enslaved people brought, not just their culture to the United States, but their cuisines.

The basic ingredient for almost all Creole dishes is a roux. A roux, French for “brown sauce,” is a base used for gravies and sauces in Creole cuisine. A roux is used to make three of the most popular Creole dishes: red beans and rice, jambalaya and gumbo.

Roux

 When making a roux, using a saucepan or a skillet is dependent upon what recipe is being made, and how much is needed. It begins with equal parts of a fat (oil, butter, lard, etc) and flour; the fat is heated on medium heat. The flour is stirred in until well incorporated and the mixture is smooth. The color of the roux is dependent upon the flavor desired for the recipe, so can be lightly browned to dark brown; this can take 15-30 minutes. The mixture must be continually stirred and watched; if any black flakes appear, it has burned and must be started over. Once the desired color is achieved, additional ingredients can then be added such as broth (stock), milk, cream, herbs, seasonings, etc.

Creole Seasoning Mix
While salt is usually part of this mix; it’s up to the person making it to decide how much to put in. If you like it salty, start with 2 Tbsp and add more if desired; or add less, or leave it out altogether; the cook is the boss.

Ingredients:

2 Tbsp each of onion powder, garlic powder, dried oregano and dried basil
1 Tbsp each of dried thyme, black and white peppercorns, dried cayenne pepper and celery seed
5 Tbsp paprika

Preparation:

Using a blender, food processor, mortar and pestle or coffee grinder (labelled for herbs and spices only); grind all the ingredients together till well blended. Store in an air tight container. Makes 1 cup.

Shrimp Creole
This dish is often served over rice, but can be served over grits, polenta or mashed potatoes.

Ingredients:

3 Tbsp olive oil
½ cup each of diced green bell peppers, onions and celery
1 Tbsp minced garlic
3 Tbsp flour
1 (14 oz) can diced tomatoes
1 (14 oz) can crushed tomatoes
1 Tbsp hot sauce (add more if more heat desired)
1 Tbsp Creole Seasoning Mix (add more if more spice desired)
2 lbs medium shrimp, peeled and deveined

Preparation:

In a large skillet, on medium heat, heat oil; add in peppers, onions, celery and garlic; sauté for 10 minutes. Add in flour and stir till well incorporated.

Add in tomatoes and hot sauce; reduce heat to low and cover; cook for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add in seasoning mix and shrimp; cook an additional 5 minutes (shrimp will turn pink and be opaque inside).

Makes 8 servings.

Mary Cokenour
March 17, 2011