What is Your Torrone Mood, Hard or Soft?

One of the great advantages, of being raised in an Italian/Croatian neighborhood, is not just experiencing two cultures, but sampling the variety of foods. Not everyone has the financial benefits of being able to travel the world, to experience what each country has to offer visitors.  However, traveling around these United States, you can basically get many of the same experiences; remember, we are a very diverse melting pot of humanity.

One of the largest celebrations, in Italian culture, is the Feast of San Gennaro.  In New York City, in September, it is an eleven-day event, within Little Italy, featuring live musical performances, parades, religious processions, vendors of every type, but foods are the major sellers.  Over one million people flock to Little Italy to enjoy this celebration of Italian heritage and culture. 

If not in a New York state of mind; don’t let Billy Joel hear that, then consider vacationing in Las Vegas, Nevada; South Florida (Tampa and Hallandale Beach), or the Georgetown area of Seattle, Washington, again, in September.  Of course, I am biased, and will push the NYC celebration before any of those other areas.

What are the typical foods being sold by the vendors during the feast? 

-Sausage and Peppers: Grilled Italian sausage with sautéed peppers and onions, typically served on a roll.

-Zeppole: Deep-fried dough balls, often covered in powdered sugar.

-Cannoli: Crisp pastry tubes filled with sweet ricotta cheese.

-Arancini aka Rice Balls: Large, breaded and fried balls of rice, often with a savory meat filling.

-Other Italian Dishes: Pasta dishes, pizza, and various Italian desserts and sweets.

-Ethnic Foods: The festival also features foods from other cultures, reflecting the diverse culinary landscape of NYC.  This is what I am speaking about when I say, you can experience the cultures and foods of the world, just by visiting our own United States!

Now that I have you all drooling, time to talk about a favorite Italian candy, sold at feasts, given out at weddings, and packed into Christmas stockings…Torrone.

Torrone has origin stories tracing back to Greece and the Arabian countries, but it is Italy that takes full credit for its creation.  In 1441, Bianca Maria Visconti married Francesco Sforza, and became the Duchess of Milan.  Legend states that, at the wedding in Cremona, Italy, a candied confection was served in the shape of The Torrazzo, the bell tower of the Cathedral of Cremona. Hence the name, however, it is more likely named after the Latin verb "torrere," which means "to toast", and refers to the traditional method of toasting almonds, a key ingredient in torrone.

  

Torrone is primarily made from honey, sugar, egg whites, and toasted nuts, most commonly almonds or hazelnuts. Other additions include pistachios, walnuts, and added flavorings such as lemon zest, orange zest, or vanilla extract (pure form only, nothing less will do).  The texture of the candy can be hard and crunchy (duro), or soft and chewy (morbido); it all depends on the proportion of ingredients and the cooking process.  Once cooled, the candy can be cut into a variety of small shapes which can be wrapped individually; or into a large block that can be cut apart later on.  The taste has a rich, sweet, nutty flavor that may be enhanced by the addition of the lemon, orange or vanilla flavorings.  It can even be coated in chocolate after cooling and cutting!

Torrone is a very sticky and messy confection, so rice aka wafer paper is used to hold it together.  The rice paper is made from potato starch and water, has a negligible flavor, so does not interfere with the full flavor of the torrone.  Without the rice paper, the nougat would stick to everything, and be impossible to cut, even after cooling.

 

Those of you who enjoy creating homemade candies might want to give the following recipe a try.  Otherwise, torrone is available via online shopping, and during the winter holidays, make sure to push your local stores to get the product onto the shelves.  Santa Claus will be so impressed, he might just give you an extra special present in your stocking.

So, enjoy a taste of torrone, whether you create it yourself, purchase it, or even have the blessed opportunity of traveling to the Feast of San Gennaro.  September is not that far away!

 

 

Classic Italian Torrone

Ingredients:

2 sheets edible wafer paper (rice paper), trimmed to fit your pan.

3 cups almonds (whole, blanched), roasted.

1 cup pistachios, roasted (this can be optional, or use hazelnuts)

1 and ⅓ cups honey.

1 cup + 3 Tbsp. sugar.

2 large egg whites, at room temperature.

¼ tsp. pure vanilla extract.

⅛ tsp. kosher salt.

1 Tbsp. lemon zest or orange zest (optional).

Preparation:

Prepare the pan: Line an 8x11-inch baking dish with plastic wrap and place one sheet of wafer paper on the bottom.

Roast nuts: Roast at 350°F for 8-10 minutes until fragrant and keep them warm. (see Notes below).

Cook honey and sugar: Combine honey and sugar in a pot and cook over low heat for about 30 minutes, stirring constantly, until smooth. (See Notes below).

Whip egg whites: Whisk egg whites and salt until soft peaks form. Combine mixtures: Gradually whisk the whipped egg whites into the warm honey mixture in batches.

Thicken the nougat: Continue cooking the mixture over low heat, stirring constantly for about 40 minutes, until it turns brighter white and thickens. A small amount dropped in ice water should feel like soft clay.

Add flavor and nuts: Whisk in lemon zest and vanilla, then add the warm nuts and stir.

Set the torrone: Transfer the mixture to the prepared dish, smooth the top, and cover with the second sheet of wafer paper. Press down gently.  Be care, the mixture will be hot!

Cool and cut: Let cool at room temperature for 1-2 hours until firm. Remove from the pan and cut into 1-inch squares with a serrated knife.

Notes:

Patience and continuous stirring are essential, especially when cooking the honey and sugar and thickening the nougat; use a candy thermometer for accuracy. Soft torrone is made with a lower temperature, around 280-290°F, while hard torrone requires a higher temperature, around 295-315°F.  Work quickly as the nougat cools and thickens fast.

Wafer paper can be difficult to find; parchment paper or greased plastic wrap can be used instead, but must be removed before eating as these are not edible.

The roasted nuts can be chopped into smaller pieces instead leaving whole.  Then they can be spread more evenly throughout the nougat.

Mary Cokenour 

 

 

 

 

Pumpkin Spice and Everything Nice.

 “Each year, the Great Pumpkin rises out of the pumpkin patch that he thinks is the most sincere. He's gotta pick this one. He's got to. I don't see how a pumpkin patch can be more sincere than this one. You can look around and there's not a sign of hypocrisy. Nothing but sincerity as far as the eye can see.”

 ~ Charles M. Schulz, It's the Great Pumpkin, Charlie Brown ~

Autumn signifies the time when the earth will begin its last hurrah, before descending into a deep winter’s sleep.  Any fruits, vegetables, nuts or other types of edible plants must be picked quickly before they wither, die and become fertilizer for the ground.  However, there is one plant that defies autumn’s wish to rest, and that is squash.  The majority of squash varieties are ready for harvest from late summer to mid-winter, so long as frost and snow do not destroy newly blooming flowers.  The “ber” months particularly embrace a most popular squash, the pumpkin which can be eaten as a soup, used to make a multitude of desserts, added to a number of main dish recipes, and do not forget snacking on the roasted seeds.

Why do we love pumpkins so much?  First has to do with the sense of sight.  The orange coloring reminds us of the full brightness of the summer sun. The sun’s fullness will diminish as winter sets in, darkening our skies for a longer period of time.  Second comes the sense of taste, as the meat of the pumpkin may be slightly sweet, but creamy in texture.  Adding ingredients to it creates dishes that are full of comfort; just what we are seeking as the temperatures drop.  While we can don coats and sweaters, or wrap ourselves in blankets, it is our body’s insides that need soothing warmth as well.  Third, and we really do not tend to think about this, but pumpkin is rich in fiber to feel full, support digestion and regularity, and is low in sugar.

This brings me to “pumpkin spice”.  What exactly is it, and why is it craved by many, especially during the “ber” months?  Depending on whose family recipe you are following, or which brand you are buying at the store, pumpkin spice can be a combination of three to five spices.  The main three are cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves; allspice is the popular fourth, ginger is fifth, and if you want to be truly adventurous, try using cardamom.  Depending on which folklore you are researching, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger and cloves are traditionally used to repel evil, and placed in amulets.  The current joke on Facebook is, “In folklore, cinnamon, ginger, and cloves repel the evil and the foul. Remember that when you hear people complaining about pumpkin spice and they hate it.”   This is a joke based upon actual folklore, so…

Now I have written about pumpkin cheesecake, bread, muffins, pies and a variety of pumpkin infused cookie recipes, including biscotti; what have I missed?  Pancakes!  Light, fluffy pancakes infused with the creaminess of pumpkin, and the spices that scream, “Tis the season for colorful leaves, bonfires, warm apple cider and pumpkin spice!”

 

Pumpkin Pancakes

 Ingredients:

 2 cups all-purpose flour (add 3 Tbsp. for high altitude)

3 tsp. baking powder

1 tsp. salt

2 tsp. ground cinnamon

½ tsp. ground nutmeg

½ tsp. ground cloves

¼ tsp. ground allspice

¼ cup brown sugar

¼ cup sugar (equal amount of Splenda or Truvia Baking Blend works too)

1 and ½ tsp. pure vanilla extract

1 cup pumpkin puree (Not pumpkin pie filling)

2 eggs, large

4 Tbsp. melted unsalted butter

1 and ½ cup milk (2%)

Preparation:

Preheat griddle or large non-stick skillet to medium heat.

Into a large bowl, sift together flour, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves and allspice.  Into a medium bowl, whisk together brown sugar, sugar, vanilla extract, pumpkin puree, eggs, melted butter, and milk.

Pour the wet ingredients over the dry ingredients and whisk to combine. The batter might still a little lumpy, do not over mix, or pancakes will not rise well; set batter aside for 5 minutes.

If not using a non-stick griddle, coat with butter; use a 1/4 measuring cup to spoon batter on to griddle or skillet, and spread out to 4-inch circle.  If you like larger pancakes, use 1/3 cup for 6-inch circles.  Cook each pancake for approximately 3-4 minutes per side.  After removing pancakes, if butter had been added and residue looks dark, wipe away before beginning next batch of pancakes.

     

 For added texture or taste, add ¼ cup of finely chopped walnuts or pecans, or chocolate chips.

Hot maple syrup is our favorite, but whipped cream or powdered sugar is a nice touch too.

Mary Cokenour