What is Your Torrone Mood, Hard or Soft?

One of the great advantages, of being raised in an Italian/Croatian neighborhood, is not just experiencing two cultures, but sampling the variety of foods. Not everyone has the financial benefits of being able to travel the world, to experience what each country has to offer visitors.  However, traveling around these United States, you can basically get many of the same experiences; remember, we are a very diverse melting pot of humanity.

One of the largest celebrations, in Italian culture, is the Feast of San Gennaro.  In New York City, in September, it is an eleven-day event, within Little Italy, featuring live musical performances, parades, religious processions, vendors of every type, but foods are the major sellers.  Over one million people flock to Little Italy to enjoy this celebration of Italian heritage and culture. 

If not in a New York state of mind; don’t let Billy Joel hear that, then consider vacationing in Las Vegas, Nevada; South Florida (Tampa and Hallandale Beach), or the Georgetown area of Seattle, Washington, again, in September.  Of course, I am biased, and will push the NYC celebration before any of those other areas.

What are the typical foods being sold by the vendors during the feast? 

-Sausage and Peppers: Grilled Italian sausage with sautéed peppers and onions, typically served on a roll.

-Zeppole: Deep-fried dough balls, often covered in powdered sugar.

-Cannoli: Crisp pastry tubes filled with sweet ricotta cheese.

-Arancini aka Rice Balls: Large, breaded and fried balls of rice, often with a savory meat filling.

-Other Italian Dishes: Pasta dishes, pizza, and various Italian desserts and sweets.

-Ethnic Foods: The festival also features foods from other cultures, reflecting the diverse culinary landscape of NYC.  This is what I am speaking about when I say, you can experience the cultures and foods of the world, just by visiting our own United States!

Now that I have you all drooling, time to talk about a favorite Italian candy, sold at feasts, given out at weddings, and packed into Christmas stockings…Torrone.

Torrone has origin stories tracing back to Greece and the Arabian countries, but it is Italy that takes full credit for its creation.  In 1441, Bianca Maria Visconti married Francesco Sforza, and became the Duchess of Milan.  Legend states that, at the wedding in Cremona, Italy, a candied confection was served in the shape of The Torrazzo, the bell tower of the Cathedral of Cremona. Hence the name, however, it is more likely named after the Latin verb "torrere," which means "to toast", and refers to the traditional method of toasting almonds, a key ingredient in torrone.

  

Torrone is primarily made from honey, sugar, egg whites, and toasted nuts, most commonly almonds or hazelnuts. Other additions include pistachios, walnuts, and added flavorings such as lemon zest, orange zest, or vanilla extract (pure form only, nothing less will do).  The texture of the candy can be hard and crunchy (duro), or soft and chewy (morbido); it all depends on the proportion of ingredients and the cooking process.  Once cooled, the candy can be cut into a variety of small shapes which can be wrapped individually; or into a large block that can be cut apart later on.  The taste has a rich, sweet, nutty flavor that may be enhanced by the addition of the lemon, orange or vanilla flavorings.  It can even be coated in chocolate after cooling and cutting!

Torrone is a very sticky and messy confection, so rice aka wafer paper is used to hold it together.  The rice paper is made from potato starch and water, has a negligible flavor, so does not interfere with the full flavor of the torrone.  Without the rice paper, the nougat would stick to everything, and be impossible to cut, even after cooling.

 

Those of you who enjoy creating homemade candies might want to give the following recipe a try.  Otherwise, torrone is available via online shopping, and during the winter holidays, make sure to push your local stores to get the product onto the shelves.  Santa Claus will be so impressed, he might just give you an extra special present in your stocking.

So, enjoy a taste of torrone, whether you create it yourself, purchase it, or even have the blessed opportunity of traveling to the Feast of San Gennaro.  September is not that far away!

 

 

Classic Italian Torrone

Ingredients:

2 sheets edible wafer paper (rice paper), trimmed to fit your pan.

3 cups almonds (whole, blanched), roasted.

1 cup pistachios, roasted (this can be optional, or use hazelnuts)

1 and ⅓ cups honey.

1 cup + 3 Tbsp. sugar.

2 large egg whites, at room temperature.

¼ tsp. pure vanilla extract.

⅛ tsp. kosher salt.

1 Tbsp. lemon zest or orange zest (optional).

Preparation:

Prepare the pan: Line an 8x11-inch baking dish with plastic wrap and place one sheet of wafer paper on the bottom.

Roast nuts: Roast at 350°F for 8-10 minutes until fragrant and keep them warm. (see Notes below).

Cook honey and sugar: Combine honey and sugar in a pot and cook over low heat for about 30 minutes, stirring constantly, until smooth. (See Notes below).

Whip egg whites: Whisk egg whites and salt until soft peaks form. Combine mixtures: Gradually whisk the whipped egg whites into the warm honey mixture in batches.

Thicken the nougat: Continue cooking the mixture over low heat, stirring constantly for about 40 minutes, until it turns brighter white and thickens. A small amount dropped in ice water should feel like soft clay.

Add flavor and nuts: Whisk in lemon zest and vanilla, then add the warm nuts and stir.

Set the torrone: Transfer the mixture to the prepared dish, smooth the top, and cover with the second sheet of wafer paper. Press down gently.  Be care, the mixture will be hot!

Cool and cut: Let cool at room temperature for 1-2 hours until firm. Remove from the pan and cut into 1-inch squares with a serrated knife.

Notes:

Patience and continuous stirring are essential, especially when cooking the honey and sugar and thickening the nougat; use a candy thermometer for accuracy. Soft torrone is made with a lower temperature, around 280-290°F, while hard torrone requires a higher temperature, around 295-315°F.  Work quickly as the nougat cools and thickens fast.

Wafer paper can be difficult to find; parchment paper or greased plastic wrap can be used instead, but must be removed before eating as these are not edible.

The roasted nuts can be chopped into smaller pieces instead leaving whole.  Then they can be spread more evenly throughout the nougat.

Mary Cokenour 

 

 

 

 

The Chicken Who Would Be King.

A number of times I have heard someone refer to my research techniques as being part ferret and part pitbull.  I believe I have always been like this, even as a child, being interested in a subject and wanting to know more and more about it.  Even now, my bookcases are filled with all kinds of books on the Four Corners states.  When writing my travel blog, I like to give accurate and historical insight to places we have visited.  Cookbooks?  I have one bookcase full of cuisines from all over the world.  With the knowledge available via the internet, I can dig up, and latch onto, more information than I know what to do with.  Gaining knowledge is like learning the tricks of a magician; something up my sleeve as you are distracted by another recipe to try.

So, as I began researching this newest interest in a chicken recipe, the information I found simply kept expanding.  Why?  Seems that from 1665 to 1972, someone, in some country was trying to take credit for its creation.  I cannot understand why myself as, no matter how fancy the added ingredients got, it still reminded me of one thing…Sh*t on a Shingle.  Yes, I consider this recipe the poultry version of Creamed Chipped Beef on Toast, just with some fancy veggies added in, maybe a drop of sherry or two.

While I attended university, this was a comfort food for me, along with shepherd’s pie, pizza and the greasier the cheeseburger, the better.  Ramen?  No, no, did not eat that dried out stuff when one could go to New York City’s Chinatown, and for five dollars buy enough food and eggrolls to last three days.  Try doing that now!

The name of the dish being referred to is Chicken A La King; small pieces of chicken and vegetables simmered in a thick cream sauce.  While some like to eat it over rice or egg noodles, toast cut into triangles is the more popular fashion.  It can be made from scratch, or semi-homemade using canned chicken, mushrooms and frozen vegetables; semi-homemade is quicker or course.

Back in 1665, the name of the dish was A La Royale, developed in France and served to royalty and aristocracy.  Even though it was mentioned in several cookbooks, no real written recipe ever appeared.  In the 1880s, Delmonico’s of New York City called it A La Keene, after Foxhall Keene who was an Olympic Gold Medalist in the sport of Polo.  But the Claridge Hotel of London claimed they named it A La Keene after Foxhall’s father, James, who was a famous horse breeder.  Sounds like a bit of father-son rivalry going on there.  The name change to A La King began in the late 1890s when the Brighton Beach Hotel, Brooklyn, NY, named the dish after their most popular patrons, E. Clarke King and his wife.  However, the Bellevue Hotel, Philadelphia, claimed it was created by hotel cook William "Bill" King.  When he died in 1915, his obituary stated that while he had no real claim to fame, his inspired recipe for Chicken A La King would be a testament to his cooking genius.  In 1972, James Beard inserted the recipe in his cookbook, American Cookery, called it Chicken A La King, and along with the chicken added mushrooms, green bell pepper, onion, and pimiento in a cream sauce with sherry.   …and that was that!

Now to ferret out an original recipe, and I am blown away how difficult that was. References to James Beard’s recipe was plentiful, but not available to look at unless the cookbook was purchased.  How rude!  I also found references to the same recipe on food blogs, but when looked for, surprise, no longer available for viewing.  How strange!  Then there were the celebrity, home cooks, food bloggers, etc. that claimed they were using an original recipe, but with a twist…the addition of peas.  No, No, No Peas!  Egads, just because Paula Dean loves butter and peas, does not mean you have to add them into every recipe.

This recipe is as close to original as I could come up with, and never got any complaints.

 

Chicken A La King

Ingredients:

1/2 cup salted butter

8 oz. white or crimini mushrooms, rough chopped

½ cup diced green bell pepper (or mix with red and yellow bell pepper for more color)

1/4 cup diced onion

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

2 cups chicken broth

2 cups heavy cream

1 Tbsp. sherry wine (never use cooking wine, that stuff is full of salt!)

¼ cup diced pimentos

4 cups chopped cooked chicken

Preparation:

In a 3-quart saucepan, melt butter over medium-high heat. Add in mushrooms, bell pepper and onion and cook until soft, about 5 minutes.

  

Add in flour and stir until well incorporated in the vegetables. Pour in chicken broth, cream and sherry; bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer until sauce is thickened, about 3 minutes. Stir in pimientos and chicken; let cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until all ingredients become evenly hot.

   

 

 

Serve over cooked rice, egg noodles, toast, or biscuits.

Makes 6 servings.

 

To create a semi-homemade version of this recipe, use canned mushrooms and canned all-white meat chicken; drain the liquid for both, and chop up the mushrooms.  For the peppers and onions, I always have a frozen bag of the stir-fry ready variety, so a quick defrost and dice them up.  Simply follow the directions for the rest, and if you do not have pimentos, this dish has so much flavor, you will not miss them.

Mary Cokenour 

Keeping It Cool.

Here we are, the middle of July and the temperatures are on the rise.  So, where is that sound that brings out our childhood delight?  “What sound?”, you ask.  It is the jingle, the jingle played by the Good Humor or Mr. Softee truck.  All the kids lining up, at the usual stop, money in hand, to buy soft serve cones, rocket pops, éclair or strawberry shortcake. 

Ah, but where I lived, as a kid, we had one more sound that would get us excited in summer’s heat.  “What sound?”, you ask.  It was the “ding-ding”, no, not “dun-dun”; I am not doing an episode of Law and Order here.  “Ding-ding” of the bicycle bell located on the handlebar, and attached to the bicycle was a freezer on wheels, carrying cherry, lemon, grape and, my personal favorite, chocolate Italian ices.  Getting out a scoop and pleated paper cup, the Italian ice man would fill the cup, pressing down to get the most inside, and then rounding out the top in a mound.  It was sweet, it turned our tongues different colors, you could drink it as it melted inside the cup, but most important of all, it was cold.

What is Italian ice?  Origin, of course, is Italian, but even there it is debated on what region.  Supposedly, it is traced back to ancient Rome and the Apennine Mountain Range which runs through the center of Italy.  Snow was always on the mountain tops, gathered in the warmer months, mixed with fruit, and was a refreshing treat in the sweltering heat.  However, in Sicily, the same claim is made, but the snow came from Mount Etna.  In Rome, it was called sorbetto; in Sicily, it was called granita, and while both used fresh fruit, an added sweetener was also included and that was honey.

Between 1880 and 1924, poverty in Southern Italy and Sicily forced many a citizen, of these regions, to immigrate to America.  Italians became the fifth largest ethnic group in the USA, and the country benefited from their many skills, including culinary.  So, is it any wonder that Italian ices did not become a huge hit, during the summer months.  The cities were crowded, even back then, with street carts, people walking to and from employment, children playing, and others just going through day-to-day existence.  Concrete buildings and cobblestone streets created virtual oven-like conditions with the heat pressing down, and no ventilation.  One could not just go to the local convenience store, open the refrigerated section and grab a “cold one”. 

Nowadays, we take a luxury like this for granted.

Ah, but here came the Italian ice man, with his icy confections keeping cool with block ice.  It was momentary relief, but it still hit the spot.

Italian ice, sorbet and sherbet, are they not all the same product?  Yes and no.  They all, if the manufacturer cares about the quality, use pureed fresh fruit, ice and a natural sweetener like sugar or honey.  However, sherbet adds another ingredient, a dairy product of milk, heavy cream or buttermilk.  The added fat gives the sherbet a smoother texture equating it more to ice cream than an “ice”.  If shopping for any of these in a market’s frozen section, read the labels!  Some have artificial flavors and colors, and lots of sugar added, to fool you into thinking you are eating real fruit.  Chances are, if the product states, “no sugar added”, real fruit which contains natural sugar itself, is your main ingredient.

Can Italian ice be homemade?  You betcha!  Back in the 1990s (aka the late 1900s), Martha Steward did a show on making “granita”, or the Sicilian version of Italian ice.  Of course, she touted it as a very fancy dessert that would “wow your guests”.  Anyway, three basic ingredients are needed: fresh fruit, ice and a sweetener.  When making a citrus flavored ice, an additional tablespoon of freshly squeezed juice will give added flavor, and a zing to the tongue.  Berries can be put into the blender whole, except for large strawberries which should be quarter, and green part removed of course.  Larger fruit should be peeled and also cut up.

 

Homemade Italian Ice

Ingredients:

3 cups fresh fruit  

2 Tbsp. honey or granulated sugar

3 cups ice (small cubes or crushed)

Option: one Tbsp. freshly squeezed juice of same fruit being used.

Preparation:

In a food processor or blender, blend the fruit, honey or sugar, optional juice, and 2 cups of ice until chunky. Add remaining one cup of ice and blend until completely smooth. Taste to see if more sweetener is necessary.

Pour the mixture into a 9” x 13” glass baking dish and freeze for 30 minutes. Remove dish from freezer and scrape with a fork until slushy. Continue to freeze for another 2 hours, repeating scraping once per hour.

Scoop the ice into dessert cups.  The ice will be of a chunky looking consistency, if a smoother texture is desired, let it sit out for about five minutes.  Warm the scoop slightly and run it over the top of the ice to smooth out the bumps.

Makes 4 cups.

Pioneer Day Weekend celebrations will be here soon, wonder if a vendor will be cooling our tongues down with a nice fruity ice?

Mary Cokenour

How to Make Sun Tea.

With the summer coming, a refreshing drink is always a way to make the day better.  Sun tea is very easy to make, and while you're working hard in the garden, the sun is doing all the work for you, in making this beverage.

 

How to Make Sun Tea

 

Get a clear, 2-gallon, glass jar with a sealable lid and wash it thoroughly.  Fill the jar 3/4 of the way up with water (bottled is preferable, but use tap if that’s all you have). Take 10 teas bags (Lipton is ok and regular or decaf depending on what you like), tied together and place inside the jar.

Now, get 8 sprigs (6-8 inches long) of lemon balm, or whatever herb you like such as a type of mint. Rinse the sprigs with water to get off dirt and place inside the jar. Seal the jar and place outside in a sunny spot, let sit for 24 hours. Bring inside and remove the tea bags, herbal sprigs and strain the liquid. Use a ladle to pour tea into a glass, add ice and enjoy.

The lemon balm flavors the tea so wonderfully, you don’t have to add any sugar; it’s so good the way it is.

Mary Cokenour

Feel That Salsa Rhythm

“Come on, shake your body, baby, do the conga.

I know you can't control yourself any longer.

Come on, shake your body, baby, do the conga.

I know you can't control yourself any longer.”

Conga

Miami Sound Machine Featuring Gloria Estefan

Here we are, the end of August and the official start of autumn is less than a month away.  Fall Equinox, aka Mabon, will be on September 22nd, and it will also be the celebration of the second harvest.  Colder temperatures will be moving in, and those vegetable plants that need more heat will be giving up their final gifts.

Our jalapeno and Roma tomato plants were full and ready for the picking, a lovely abundance of green and red.  Would I be making pasta sauce with those tomatoes this year?  Sadly no, as the tomato plants were not as fruitful as gallons of sauce would require.  However, those jalapeno peppers were screaming at me, “Don’t you want your taste buds to dance with us?”

Who was I to argue with hot peppers, so being agreeable, I pulled out salt, garlic, onions, cilantro and lime juice to join the conga line.  It was salsa making time!

What is salsa, and who invented it first.  Salsa is typically, in our modern world, a combination of chopped, diced, minced tomatoes, onions, garlic and peppers with seasonings added for flavor boosting.  However, when the Spanish invaded…. umm, discovered and explored, Mexico and Central America, the recipe consisted of tomatoes, chile peppers and squash seeds.  While we think of salsa being a traditional Mexican dish, it can be traced back to the Aztecs, Incas and Mayans.  The Maya were native people of Mexico and Central America, while the Aztec were located mainly in northern Mesoamerica (today’s countries of northern Costa Rica, Nicaragua, Honduras, El Salvador, Guatemala, Belize, and central to southern Mexico) between 1345 and 1521 BCE.  The Inca lived in ancient Peru between 1400 and 1533 BCE, and extended across western South America.  Then the Spanish came in the 1500s, and changed up, not just life and culture, but the native cuisines.

The overall flavor of salsa is dependent, not just upon ingredients used, but how it is created; raw or cooked.  Then there is the chile peppers used, each having its own discernible flavor, and heat intensity, which can also be changed via drying or cooking.  The peppers get their heat primarily from the seeds, so keeping them in the recipe will gauge mild to medium to hot.  When I make salsa, for a two-cup recipe, usually one large jalapeno with seeds and white pith (aka ribs) removed.  The heat of the pepper tingles the lips, and the edges of the tongue; however, full flavor of the tomatoes, onions and garlic are front and center.  That is how we like it, and dicing and mincing via knife skills, creates a chunky, not watered down, mixture.

Have I purchased jarred salsa off the market shelf?  Sure have, but I drain the contents, saving the juice for when I make enchilada sauce.  Chunky salsa plus starter for enchilada sauce; sounds like a win-win situation for me.  Of course, homemade salsa does not contain the preservatives that store bought must have to avoid spoilage.  So, when making a large batch, have in mind how to store; canning or freezing.  Be aware that the water content of tomatoes will affect the salsa by breaking down the texture of the tomatoes.  That is why I like using Roma tomatoes, for sauce and salsa, as they are meatier, have less seeds and less water content.

Salsa is a trifecta of dip, condiment or snack/meal that will make your taste buds dance.  Might as well put on some music, and have your entire body dance to the rhythm as well.

 

Homemade Salsa

Ingredients: 

½ cup diced onion

1 Tbsp.  minced garlic

1 large jalapeno, seeds and white pith removed, diced

1 and ½ cups diced tomatoes (4 medium size Roma – more meat, less seeds & juice)

¼ tsp. salt

2 Tbsp. fresh cilantro leaves, minced (1 Tbsp. for dried and crushed)

3 Tbsp. lime juice

Option: ¼ tsp.  ground cumin (adds smoky flavor) 

 

 

 

 

 Roma Tomatoes - meatier, less seeds, less juice; perfect for making homemade pasta sauce too.

 

 

 

 

Preparation:

 

In large bowl, mix all ingredients together.  Let settle for 15 minutes; mix again before serving.

Refrigerate leftovers in airtight container, will last 5 days.

Makes 2 cups.

 

 

 

 

 

 

To Freeze

Place in airtight container, or freezer bag pressing out as much air as possible.

Water content in the tomatoes can break down texture, so use within two months; except if using Roma tomatoes, then three months.

 

 

Quick Cook Salsa

Ingredients:

1 Tbsp. olive oil

1 pint cherry tomatoes, cut into halves (why cherry tomatoes, the aesthetics!)

1 small onion, diced

1 Anaheim pepper, seeded and diced

¼ cup dried cilantro leaves

¼ tsp. salt 

Preparation:

In a medium skillet, or small Wok, heat oil on medium heat; add tomatoes and cook for five minutes to release juice from the tomatoes.

Increase heat to medium-high, add remaining ingredients, mix well and let cook until the liquid reduces by 3/4s.

 

 

 

 

 

Use as garnish for meat, pork or chicken; use as dip or condiment.

Makes 2 cups.

Mary Cokenour