Butchering Monticello.

Imagine, if you can, living during the 1880s.  Pioneers had traveled over desolate landscapes, losing many a wagon wheel, but not one life, not even one of the oxen pulling those wagons.

Settling in Bluff, alongside the San Juan River, the pioneers still endured hardships.  There was the lack of food supplies, as gardens and farms needed to be cultivated.  They were able to trade with local Native tribes, those that were willing to; the Carlisle cattle ranchers butchered and sold what they asked top dollar for.  Of course, the army sent soldiers to patrol the county, make sure government surveyors and expeditions kept safe, and keep peace between the pioneers, Natives and ranchers.  While the army provided provisions to their men, it was not unusual for an expectation of meals to be provided from the pioneers.  Meals in exchange for safety, not a bad deal, right?

Around the end of 1886 to beginning 1887, it was decided that expansion of settlements was needed, and a prime focus was finding more water sources along Montezuma Creek, and within the Blue Mountains.  One settlement that became firmly established was Monticello, and while much of the land was cleared previously by the Colorado ranchers, there was still much to be done.  To truly get the gist of what life was like, I, once again, recommend reading the first issue of Monticello Journal, A History of Monticello Until 1937, by Harold George and Fay Lunceford Muhlestein.  There is an issue at the local library, and copies for sale at the San Juan Record.  After reading it, and knowing yourself, it truly will make you wonder, “Would I have survived being one of the pioneers?”.

The focus though, of this article, is on the establishment of a business surely needed in Monticello…Butchering.  Besides housing for the residents, businesses needed to be established (sort of what we desperately need now as well), since traveling to larger towns, or cities, would take days into weeks.  While growing vegetables and other crops was taking a firm hold, nutrition called for sources of proteins.  Fish and birds, when caught, could provide for some, but, again, getting beef from the Colorado ranchers was the primary source, and that didn’t charge cheap.

Ah, but eventually lawyers were able to prove that the ranchers had no legal foot hold all over San Juan County.  They were forced to either establish property deals, or leave the area; and many had to sell off cattle to the local residents.  Sheep and pigs were later introduced to the area, but these herds did not fare well, and cattle dominated.

In, 1909, the Enlarged Homestead Act, provided 320 acres of non-irrigable land for the purpose of farming.  The areas set aside for this were east and north of Monticello, and welcome to the birth of homesteading and dry farming.  Dry farming?  Dry farming is a technique relying on soil moisture conservation to grow crops like winter wheat without irrigation. Local farmers combat arid conditions by limiting plowing and using drought-resistant seeds.  One such homesteader was Hans Jensen, arriving in 1911, by horse and wagon; he lived on his land, in a tent, and daily worked his land.  Only 5’5” tall, 125 lbs., he determinedly worked as having his own thriving farm was his sincere goal.  There must have been more to this man than meets the eye, as the mayor’s daughter, Adella Adams, eventually agreed to marry him.  Oh, she could have had anyone, considering she came from money, but living in Hans’ tent showed how much she loved him as well.

 

Hans Jensen, photo by Dawn Joyce Boyle.

In 1921, Hans built a small building which became his butcher shop.  With no refrigeration equipment invented yet, he, and Duke Edwards, who worked for Hans, would cut out 100-pound blocks of ice, bury then in dirt, and cover with sawdust during the winter.  In warmer weather, the blocks were hefted onto the roof of the building (Hans had built an insulated box), and this helped keep the provisions cool.  Customers could come to him for cuts of beef or pork, but it was not unusual to see Hans delivering to homes further outside the town, in his Ford Model-T pickup truck.

Hans, Della, and their children (as they grew older) had strong work ethics which helped them prosper, and the City Meat Market became a much needed and wanted business in Monticello.  Now I could go on and on about Hans and his family, and eventually how Blue Mountain Foods, and Meats, became the strongest businesses for the butchering, and the purchasing of meats, fish and poultry.  Instead, I will refer you to an article, in the San Juan Record, Hans and Della Jensen – short in stature, tall in life, 04/28/2010, written by Bill Boyle, grandson of Hans Jensen, and owner of the San Juan Record.   Or, if you happen to have, or can get a copy of, Blue Mountain Shadows, Volume 31/Winter 2005; pages 41-44 have the story of Hans, his family and the development of, not just the business of butchering, but the City Meat Market/Mercantile, including photos.

 

So, how does all this historical rambling of mine lead into a recipe?  Alright, stay with me here…the original members that followed Brigham Young and John Smith came from the east coast.  On the east coast was another group, the Amish, who had come to the United States for religious freedom.  Culturally, it was not unusual for their recipes to have come from their old countries, and carried across the US with those heading to, first Illinois, and ending up in Utah.  Another business that needed to be established were granaries and flour mills, as bread goods were a serious staple for existence, and that meant goods such as noodles and pasta as well.

The recipe I am giving you is called “Pioneer Beef and Noodles”, brought to Utah by the pioneers, and influenced by the Amish.  The recipe is simplistic with the use of wide noodles, created with the flour purchased from the mill, and beef from the local butcher.  Another cultural influence came from the Scandinavians and Slavics, as adding sour cream to the mix, and safe wild mushrooms, would bring us to a simmering pot of Stroganoff.   

 

 

 

In my recipe, I use an Italian herbal mixture and tagliatelle pasta, but that’s creative license on my part, so wide noodles would be more authentic.  With the seasonings, the pioneers used either what they brought with them, or what the Native tribes taught them to be safe and flavorful.

 

 

 

Pioneer Beef and Noodle Skillet Dish

Ingredients:

1 lb. ground beef (93/7)

1 large onion, chopped

3-4 cloves garlic, minced

4 cups beef broth

1 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce

1 tsp. Italian herbal mix

8-12 oz. wide egg noodles, uncooked (or tagliatelle pasta for a more Italian twist)

1/2 cup sour cream (optional)

 

Preparation:

 

 

 

 

In a large skillet or Dutch oven, brown the ground beef with onion and garlic over medium-high heat. Drain excess fat.

 

 

 

 

Stir in beef broth, Worcestershire sauce, and seasonings. Bring to a boil.

 

 

 

Add uncooked egg noodles, cover, and reduce heat to low. Simmer for 12-15 minutes until noodles are tender, stirring occasionally.

 

 

 

Option: Stir in sour cream for creaminess.  For a more “stroganoff” type texture, add one cup of sour cream.  To get even closer to stroganoff, add a cup of chopped mushrooms when browning the beef, onions and garlic.

 

Serves 4-6.

Mary Cokenour 

 

There’s Mexican and Then Sort of Mexican.

When it comes to cooking up Mexican recipes, I often tend to wonder, “Is this authentic, or another recipe that has been Americanized?”.  Let’s get real about American food, it basically came about from other countries and cultures that immigrated to North America.  Nowadays, mainly in extremely large metropolises, purely ethnic communities can be found and you will get the real deal when it comes to their country’s cuisine.

Mexican food can be found from the smallest town to the largest city, but even restaurants have to cater to the awkward taste of the typical born and raised American.  Take, for example, fajitas; you will not be finding them served in Mexico City, Guadalajara (Gustavo’s of Monticello does have them on their menu), Oaxaca or even Tijuana.  Why?  Their origin is Texas, The Lone Star State, where cowboys from Mexico taught the American West cowboy how to eat better.  This is an example of fusion cooking, where the cuisine of Texas combined with Mexican cuisine, and a new recipe was born.  Don’t think this is true, then I’ll quote myself from November 2016, “A historical piece called “Fajitas, South Texas Style”, done at Texas A&M University by Mary K. Sweeten and Homer Recio, established that this could be traced as far back as the 1930’s in Texas; hence the beginning of what is called “Tex-Mex” cuisine.  (Go to: https://oaktrust.library.tamu.edu/bitstream/handle/1969.1/147901/Bull1500a.pdf?sequence=9&isAllowed=y for the full story.)”.  A whole study done on Tex-Mex cuisine, and fajitas; now would I lie to you?

Let’s take on another popular recipe which, again, has its origins in Tex-Mex, Taco Soup.  Alright, don’t be getting your knickers in a twist, no way will I be disillusioning tacos.  Taco soup is actually derived from a more traditional Mexican soup, Tortilla soup. It combines traditional Mexican flavors, like those found in tacos and chili, with ingredients easily available in American supermarkets, such as taco seasoning, diced tomatoes with green chilies, and a variety of beans.

In my search for a taco soup recipe worth creating, I found one in a Paula Deen cookbook; however, it ended up being the consistency of chili, and tasting exactly like that.  Doing more searching, I was amazed that most of the recipe sites that mentioned taco soup had "cooks" with Paula's recipe listed word for word; yet they listed the recipe as their own "original" recipe.   So, I have "cooks" in quotes to show my sarcasm as they aren't real cooks, just copycats who don't have the manners to give credit where credit is due. The recipe I will be giving is highly influenced by Paula Deen, but tweaked enough to be considered an original, not a copycat.  It has a creamed soup texture, not thick like a standard chili, and the ranch dressing gives a mild flavor that does not overpower the concept of tacos.

 

 

Taco Soup

Ingredients:

1 lb. ground beef (85% lean), browned, drain excess grease

1 (28 oz.) crushed tomatoes

1 (14.5 oz.) can diced tomatoes with green chilies

1(14.5 oz.) can beef broth

1 (15 oz.) can great northern (white) beans

1 (15 oz.) can whole black beans

1 (11 oz.) can Mexican style whole kernel corn

1 (1.25 oz.) packet taco seasoning mix

¼ cup bottled original ranch dressing, not buttermilk

Preparation:

 

Set 4-quart crock pot on low; spray with nonstick cooking spray. Put in all items from ingredients list; do not drain beans or corn. Cover and cook for 4 hours.

 

Makes 10 (2 cup) servings.

Garnishes:

Chopped fresh cilantro

Avocado slices

Diced red onion

Sour cream

Shredded Mexican cheese blend

Crumbled Queso Fresco cheese

Tortilla chips or strips

Now for that authentic Mexican soup I mentioned earlier, Tortilla Soup aka Sopa Azteca aka Sopa de tortilla.  The origin of tortilla soup is traced to pre-Columbian Mexico, where the use of corn tortillas in soups was a natural way to utilize leftover tortillas. The dish evolved from indigenous practices in Central Mexico, incorporating ingredients like corn, tomatoes, and chiles, and later adding European influences like onion, garlic, and chicken broth. While the exact moment of creation is unknown, the combination reflects ancient Mexican culinary traditions. Tortilla soup's foundational ingredients were staples in the diet of indigenous peoples in Mesoamerica, including the Aztecs, long before the arrival of the Spanish.  It is an iconic meal that is comforting and resourceful at the same time.

Besides chicken broth, my recipe also incorporates chicken meat, so hence the name, chicken tortilla soup. The soup is colorful from the ingredients, flavorful from the seasonings and a mild warming sensation from the chilies exemplified the essence of comfort.  The tortilla chips? I wondered about them, basically why put something crunchy in a soup, just so it can get soggy?  I was surprised though; the softened tortilla chips gave the illusion of noodles (tortilla strips) or dumplings (tortilla chips) enhancing the feeling of comfort overall.

 

Chicken Tortilla Soup

 

Ingredients:

6 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves

1 (15 oz.) can black beans, do not drain liquid

1 (15 oz.) can pinto beans, do not drain liquid

2 (11 oz.) cans Mexican corn, do not drain liquid

1 (14.5 oz.) can diced tomatoes with green chilies

1 Tbsp. dried cilantro

½ tsp. dried oregano

½ tsp. ground cumin

¼ tsp. ground black pepper

2 (14.5 oz.) cans chicken broth

Tortilla chips

Preparation:

Set a 6-quart crock pot on low; place inside the ingredients in order of listing. Cook for 6 hours; remove chicken and shred. Return chicken to crock pot and mix thoroughly. Line bottom of soup bowl with tortilla chips; ladle soup over chips.

Makes 12 servings.

Garnishes: sour cream, shredded cheese, avocado, chopped fresh cilantro

Considering the stormy weather we are currently having, a hot bowl of either of these soups will warm body and soul up quite nicely.

Mary Cokenour 

 

 

Meatballs Meet The Old Spanish Trail.

 This is a combination of my travel and food blogs.

“Into the great wide open

Under them skies of blue

Out in the great wide open

A rebel without a clue”

Into the Great Wide Open, by Tom Petty and the Heartbreakers, 1991

Since around June, hubby and I have taken short riding trips, with our dog, just to get away from the town.  Like the song lyrics just read, into the great wide open, under the skies of blue; and San Juan County certainly has a monopoly on both.  Round and round the trails of Lisbon Valley; Steen Road where Charlie Steen had his Mi Vida mine.  Crossing over Highway 191 onto old highway 191, driving past the abandoned Monticello CCC Camp location and coming out at Wilson’s Arch. No matter how many times we travel these parts, we always notice something new.

 

Recently, a dirt trail past Casa Colorado Rock caught our attention.  Oh, we already knew the trail was there, seen it before, say, “One of these days we’ll check it out.”  Why did we notice it more this time?  There was a new sign, and we knew it was new, cause it was all shiny new, and didn’t see it anytime before, put up by the BLM.  Sign reads, “Las Tinajas Water Holes, Bureaus of Land Management, Old Spanish National Historic Trail”.  This is so new-new that we could not even find it listed on the BLM, nor The Old Spanish Trail Association, websites.  Lots of references to the Las Tinajas Waterfall and Swimming Holes in Puerto Rico though.  Even asked Google AI which stated, “The BLM has no new established trails in San Juan County, UT relating to The Old Spanish Trail.”  Good thing I always take a camera on our jaunts, so could document what we had found.

 

So, the trailhead is off Steen Road, near Casa Colorado Rock; now that’s the name the BLM has listed on their information board about this formation.  If you visit my travel blog, February and May 2014, I wrote extensively about Steen Road and the formations along, and seen from, it.  In 1874, Willian Henry Jackson photographed the same areas, and named the formation "Cave Rocks / Sierra La Sal / Dry Valley”.  Closer to Highway 191 is where the Hook and Ladder OHV Trailhead can be accessed as well. 

 

But I digress, the trail to the water holes is one-mile, round trip, over very sandy ground, and it gets steeper the closer to the water holes you get.  There are no areas of shade along the trail, so, being in the great wide open, wearing a hat; loose, light colored clothing, hiking shoes and carrying lots of water is a must.  A side trail to Casa Colorado Rock brings you to more shaded areas, so bring a picnic for a restful lunch.

This is a combination travel and food article, so that was the travel part, and here comes the food.  Since this trail is an established part of The Old Spanish Trail, it is quite appropriate to introduce a Spanish recipe that has become a staple in Mexico, Albóndigas Guisadas aka stewed meatballs.

During the 6^th to 15^th centuries, the Moors, of the Middle East, inhabited and influenced southwestern Europe, which included Spain.  When the Spanish explorers came to Mexico, and the more southern regions of North America, they too influenced the people already dwelling there.  Albondigas was one culinary influence in which it can be served as a savory stew, or a full bodied, comforting soup of meatballs, vegetables and rich broth.

The word "albondigas" comes from the Arabic word "al-bunduq," meaning "hazelnut" or "small round object," which refers to the shape of the meatballs.  Since the 15^th century, the recipe has gone through many changes throughout Spain and Mexico, however, tomatoes, garlic, onions, peppers and olive oil (combination known as “sofrito”) remain the foundation for the broth.  This type of recipe is similar to ones from Italy, but the seasonings of cumin and chili powder give albondigas its Spanish signature.

After the meatballs are browned, they are finished off by cooking in the broth.  For a stew, the broth/sauce is much thicker, and can be served over rice or mashed potatoes. In soup form, the broth is thinner, and vegetables of zucchini, potatoes, and carrots can be added.  An ingredient, sold under the brand name “Maggi Jugo”, is a rich brown liquid whose equivalent is dark soy sauce, and is a must for the broth, whether the product itself, or using the soy sauce as a substitute.

For the onions, white or red (purple) can be used, or a combination.  The same for the bell peppers, all one color of red, yellow or green, or a combination.  First cut the vegetables into strips (julienne), then cut the strips in half before adding to the sauce mixture.  The first recipe will be a stove top method which will be quick cooking.  The second will be for the crock pot which I have found creates a better dish.  The slower cooking allows the meatballs to absorb the flavors of the sauce it is cooking in; and the entire dish becomes richer and more flavorful.

 

Albóndigas Guisadas (Spanish Stewed Meatballs)

Meatball ingredients:

2 and ½ lbs. lean ground beef or 2 lbs. beef + ½ lb. ground pork

2 Tbsp. Maggi Jugo (dark soy sauce can be substituted)

1/2 cup minced onions

2 Tbsp. beef stock

2 tsp. ground black pepper

1/2 cup plain, dried bread crumbs

1 egg

For frying: 1/2 cup olive oil

Sauce Ingredients:

2 cups onions and peppers, julienned and halved

1 Tbsp. minced garlic

2 tsp. cumin

2 tsp. chili powder (mild or medium)

1 can (10 oz.) tomato sauce

1 can (4 oz.) tomato paste

1 can (28 oz.) crushed tomatoes

1 can (14.5 oz.) diced tomatoes with chilies (mild or medium)

1 cup beef stock

¼ cup Maggi Jugo (dark soy sauce can be substituted)

Preparation:

For the meatballs, mix all meatball ingredients, except olive oil, thoroughly, in a large bowl.  Roll mixture into two-inch balls; makes about 3 dozen.  In a large skillet, heat olive oil on medium heat, add meatballs and brown for 3 minutes; turn over and brown again for 3 minutes.  Do not drain oil.

 

For the sauce, in a large pot, 4 to 5-quart, on medium-high heat, add all sauce ingredients and cook for 20 minutes, stir occasionally.  Add browned meatballs, reduce heat to medium, cover and cook 15 minutes; uncover, stir bottom to top, cook additional 10 minutes.  Serve with white rice or mashed potatoes.

Makes six servings.

Crock Pot Method

In a 4-quart crock pot, mix together all sauce ingredients, set on low.  Create meatballs as in stove top directions, add to sauce in crock pot, including the oil (full of added flavor).  Let cook for six hours before serving over white rice or mashed potatoes.

 

A huge thank you to my taste testers at the Monticello 7-11/Exxon; your positive and helpful opinions made this worthwhile.

Looking for something in the sandwich genre,  Preheat oven to 400F.  Place six meatballs, plus veggies and sauce on one half of a large sized Naan bread.  Sprinkle shredded mozzarella cheese over the filling. Fold the other half of the Naan bread over the filling, place on an aluminum foil covered pan, place in oven for 15 minutes.  Now that's going to be one heck of a satisfying sandwich!  

Mary Cokenour 

 

Traditional British Pub Food.

See that title, well, it’s not 100% correct.  When it comes to the word “traditional”, it’s geared towards the foods that are well known for that part of the United Kingdom.  Also, it has to be taken into account that other countries influenced each other.  Those, in England, did not stay put, as could be said for Scotland, Ireland and Wales, with a smattering of isles here and there.

Oh, and don’t forget all the invaders from Northern Europe (those Vikings were a randy bunch), and the Romans that marched through (the originators of the One World Order ideal).

When I write about British recipes, they are the typical ones I have seen depicted in television shows, movies, or written in one of my favorite genres, British mysteries.  I have already shared a few, San Juan Record, July 03, 2018 – The Cornish Pasty; June 26, 2024 – English Style Fish and Chips; and March 19, 2025 – The Ploughman’s Lunch.  When it comes to Shepherd’s Pie though, do a search on my food blog and you will find recipes that use the traditional ground lamb, and the not so traditional ground beef, elk, venison and alpaca.  Remember though, when I say “British”, it also refers to the influences from the surrounding countries of the United Kingdom.

So, if my kitchen was a typical pub kitchen, what would be on the menu?  Besides what I mentioned above, there would be: Bangers and Mash, Bubble and Squeak, Toad in the Hole, Yorkshire Pudding, and variations of Shepherd’s Pie, one featuring chicken.  Reading the first three recipe names, I bet you are wondering if I am cooking up food, or creating a weird new comic series. Yes, they are actual names of recipes which I will share with you.  By the way, the main meat ingredient for those three recipes is sausages; oh, those Brits just love their sausages.

 

Bangers and Mash

Bangers and mash is a traditional dish consisting of sausages and mashed potato. The dish is usually served with onion gravy, but may also include fried onions and peas.

 

 

 

 

Bubble and Squeak

Bubble and squeak is a dish made from cooked potatoes and cabbage, mixed together and fried.  Since cabbage contains a lot of water, it tends to make "bubbly" and squeaking noises as it wilts and cooks.

If, after making the first two recipes, you happen to have loads of mashed potatoes and chopped cabbage available, how about going Irish?  Colcannon, aka Irish Mashed Potatoes, is an Irish mashed potato recipe made with greens (cabbage, kale or mustard greens), scallions, and plenty of butter and cream.

 

 

 

Toad-in-the-Hole

 Toad in the hole is a traditional dish consisting of sausages in Yorkshire pudding batter, usually served with onion gravy and vegetables. Historically, the dish has also been prepared using other meats, such as rump steak and lamb's kidneys.

 

 

 

Yorkshire Pudding

Yorkshire pudding is a baked pudding (more a bread than a dessert pudding) made from a batter of eggs, flour, and milk, traditionally served with roast beef or as part of a roast dinner in British cuisine. It's known for its puffy, crispy exterior and soft, slightly doughy interior. The batter is similar to pancake batter but thicker, and it's often cooked in hot fat, traditionally beef drippings, which contributes to its savory flavor. 

 

Yes, I have a traditional Yorkshire Pudding baking tin which consists of 6 cups/compartments, that are not attached like a typical muffin tin pan.  Metal rods hold each cup separate from each other.  They are deeper than muffin tins, so the puddings can rise up higher, crispier on the outside, and fluffier, yet still doughy, on the inside.

 

 

 

Shepherd's Pie/Cottage Pie

Cottage pie is a meat pie, traditionally made with ground beef, vegetables, and gravy, topped with mashed potatoes. In the USA, cheddar cheese is often mixed into the mashed potatoes.  While the terms cottage pie and shepherd's pie are often used interchangeably, shepherd's pie is traditionally made with ground lamb or mutton, and parmesan cheese is mixed into the mashed potatoes.

 

Traditional Shepherd’s Pie/Cottage Pie

Ingredients:

The Filling:

2 ½ lbs. ground lamb or beef (depending on which pie is being made)

1 large onion, diced

1 (4 oz.) can mushrooms, diced

2 Tbsp. tomato sauce or ketchup

2 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce

1 (16 oz.) bag frozen peas and carrots

1 Tbsp. each crushed dry thyme and marjoram

1 tsp. pepper

2 Tbsp. flour

1 cup beef stock

The Topping:

6 large potatoes, peeled and cut up

4 Tbsp. butter

1/2 cup milk

6 Tbsp. grated parmesan cheese

1/2 tsp. ground black pepper

Paprika

Preparation:

In a large skillet, high heat, brown the meat and drain excess oil.  Add the onion and mushrooms, letting cook till the onion softens.  Add tomato and Worcester sauces, frozen vegetables, herbs, pepper, flour and beef stock; mix thoroughly and bring to a boil.  Reduce heat to low and let simmer for 15 minutes.

While meat mixture is simmering, boil the potatoes in salted water until tender.  Drain and mash the potatoes, add butter, milk, grated cheese and pepper to the potatoes.

Preheat oven to 375F.  In a 3-quart rectangular baking dish, spread 1/2 potatoes on bottom of baking dish; spread out the meat mixture; top with the other 1/2 of potatoes; sprinkle paprika over top.  Bake for 30-40minutes; potatoes should be lightly browned, and the pie heated throughout.

Makes 8 – 10 servings.  

When it comes to pure comfort food, this mixture of baked potatoes, meat and vegetables is definitely a must have. 

Creating the chicken cottage pie, cooked and chopped chicken breasts were used, instead of beef.  Whole kernel corn was added to the vegetables, instead of mushrooms.  Instead of tomato sauce or ketchup and Worcestershire sauce, I used 1 (10.5 oz.) can of cream of chicken soup, plus ½ cup milk for an extra creamy sauce.  When it comes to shepherd’s pie/cottage pie, not everyone eats a red meat of some type, so chicken is a great substitute.

There are so many cookbooks geared towards English pub foods, and if you’re wanting to purchase one, I say go for the older editions.  They have the more traditional recipes listed, instead of being updated to more modern trends and fads.  "Pip pip, cheerio, and all that rot!"

Mary Cokenour 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Old Burgers are New Again.

“Don't throw the past away.

You might need it some rainy day.

Dreams can come true again.

When everything old is new again.”

Everything Old Is New Again

Song by Peter Allen ‧ 1974

Another “new” trend seems to have hit the culinary world, smashed burgers.  Sorry to burst the bubbles of those who love to follow trends, but smashed burgers are nothing new.  Growing up during the 60s and 70s, of the 1900s, a large thin burger on a toasted bun was the norm at any diner, restaurant or hole in the wall, quick bite to eat place.  Condiments and other toppings could be added on which created a double fisted filling meal; no forks and knives around as that was too hoity toity.

While many a restaurant, in various states, claim to have created the smashed burger, it is the Dairy Cheer, a diner in Ashland, Kentucky, located in the Appalachian Mountains, which gets the full recognition.  The story, traced back to the 1950s, is that a cook, for some unknown reason, decided to use a can of beans to smash out a burger patty while cooking on a grill.  Basically, the smashing process creates more surface area for the Maillard reaction, which results in a caramelized, crispy exterior and intense flavor. It was a huge success, and became a new standard for cooking burgers.

Around the 1980s, when life seemed to have become easier and financially sound, people wanted more than the usual standards.  Bigger was better, and that included simple items like the hamburger.  Instead of thin burgers, restaurants began to create thick burgers, sometimes putting ingredients, like cheese, into the burger’s middle.  Now here’s where the joke was on everyone, those thick burgers were actually smaller than the smashed burgers.

Alright, for the math impaired, 1/3 is larger than ¼, but1/3 is smaller than ½; now stay with me here.  Smashed burgers are larger in diameter, but smaller in thickness; perfect example is the Whopper at Burger King.  Typically, a smashed burger is 1/3 of a pound of meat, however, those thick burgers that cost more were typically only ¼ of a pound.  So, folks were eating less for more money; wow, what a bargain…not!

In the 2000s, a new chain restaurant began in Denver, Colorado, Smashburger.  The old way of cooking burgers was being reintroduced to diners, and folks were loving it.  This has become a popular trend, and even fast-food places, like Sonic Drive-In are riding this train.  However, how the smashed burger is created, and cooked, makes a huge difference in texture and taste.

 

To make a delicious, full of juice and flavor, burger, make sure to use 80/20 ground beef.  It will have enough fat to help cook the burger, but not make the burger overly greasy.  For a 1/3 lb. burger, measure out 2/3s cup of meat, packed loosely.  Place either on a sheet of plastic wrap, or, when I make them, a plastic plate, with another sheet of plastic, or plastic plate on top.  Using the heel of one hand, start in the center of the meat and begin pushing it outward in a circular motion.  When it feels even, slowly lift off the top plastic; use fingertips to pat the edges of the patty into a circle; the diameter should be about five inches.

Using a long thin spatula (5”x2”, known as an omelet spatula) carefully lift the smashed patty to place on a sheet of wax paper.  Continue until all the ground beef has been used up; 2 lbs. of 80/20 will give six burgers.  Place the burgers in a plastic freezer bag, place in freezer for 30 minutes to one hour to firm them up before cooking.

Why smash the ground beef patties before cooking?  Excellent question.  Now that the meat is thin, it will not only cook more quickly, but the Maillard reaction, mentioned before, will immediately begin to take effect.  If the patty is thick, cooked on one side, flipped and then smashed, all the flavorful juices will ooze out, and you will end up with a dry burger.

 

Can you add spices to the ground beef before-hand?  Of course, but we do not as we want the full flavor of the beef to be tasted after adding condiments, or fixings like cheese, lettuce, pickles, sliced tomatoes, or oven fried onion rings. Also, make sure to use a good flavored bun, and I highly recommend Sara Lee’s Artesano brand.

 

 

 

 

Lunch is Served!

 

Perfectly Cooked All the Way Through.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Which is better, stove top nonstick griddle or outdoor barbecue grill?  Both methods work just as well. For the griddle, set the stove temperature to medium-high, 350F.  Place burgers on griddle and let cook for three minutes; let them sit, no poking!  After three minutes, flip them over and let cook for another three minutes.  If you want melted cheese on them before serving, flip the burgers once again, place two slices of cheese on top, and let it melt for one minute before removing to serving platter.  The shrinkage of the burgers will be about 3/4s of an inch around, so a 5-inch diameter will go down to a 4 and ¼-inch diameter.  Sounds like a lot, but that means that all the juicy flavor has been trapped inside the meat itself.

 

 

Smashed Burgers Made on Stove Top Grill

 

 

For the barbecue grill, oil the cooking surface with non-stick spray as you do not want your burgers to stick.  Fire it up and get the temperature to 400F, place burgers down and cook one side for two minutes; do not bring the top down on the barbecue, leave it open to the air.  Flip the burgers, cook another two minutes.  Melted cheese before-hand, follow the same direction as for the stove top griddle.  Remove to serving platter.

Smashed Burgers Made on Barbecue Grill

 

Smashed Burgers Made Two Ways

Now you have perfectly cooked smashed burgers that can be made at home, and you know exactly what is in them, and the cooking method used.  Just in case my directions were not clear, photos of each step will be on the food blog.  Smash’em up and enjoy good eating!

Mary Cokenour 

Beef is Just What the Doctor Ordered.

A classic meal, not just in the United States, but in many other countries, is the hamburger.  I am not referring to the minuscule hockey pucks sold at too many fast-food places.  I am not referring to the one-inch-thick rounds of seasoned meat, dripping with juices, layered between a bun and topped with anything your heart desires.  No, I am talking about an actual meal that consists of the hamburger as the star, served with a rich gravy, over rice, egg noodles or mashed potatoes.

In the USA, we know this meal as Salisbury Steak, but its origin is not here, or in any other English-speaking country, as the name might imply.  The original hamburger steak with gravy originated in Hamburg, Germany.  It was in the 1800s that immigrants from Germany brought this recipe to, not just America, but into England as well.  At this time, during the Meiji Era, Japan finally opened its borders to foreigners.  This opened up this region to cuisines from the USA, England, and India (Where do you think the Brits and Japanese got their love of curry from!”).

Back to Salisbury Steak which was named after Dr. James Henry Salisbury.  He was a general physician, but had a great interest in gastrointestinal health, digestion and nutrition.  During the Civil War, he noticed that the main diet of the soldiers was bread, a broth-like soup with some vegetables added, and fruit.  That is if fresh fruit and vegetables were available.  Dr. Salisbury deduced that even though the soldiers were eating, their bodies were actually starving from the lack of protein.  By introducing some type of meat (he focused on beef and pork), thickening the broth with “hard tack” biscuits, and adding vegetables, a more nutritious meal could be served to the soldiers, both North and South.

Ah, now how did Salisbury Steak become a popular dish, for not just those dining in restaurants, but for the populace in general?  Remember those German immigrants from Hamburg?  Coming into the USA, their ships landed in New York City, home to many famous restaurants like Delmonico’s.  Yes, you guessed it.  The chefs of Delmonico’s came up with a fancified version of the Hamburg steak, but then took it to another level.  Swiss Steak, which did not originate in Switzerland at all, is similar to the Hamburg steak recipe, but instead of ground meat, it uses actual steak that is tenderized by the” cubing” method.  “Cubing”?  The beef is pounded out and flattened to help tenderize cheaper cuts.  If you have eaten country fried/chicken fried steak, then you have eaten cubed steak.  Anyway, back to Delmonico’s who, with their innovative culinary techniques, were able to sell, to the rich and famous, dishes that any ordinary citizen could make as well.

After WW2, beef, in Japan, became more readily available and at a cheap price. Housewives, and restaurants, were able to take the Hamburg recipe and adjust it to Japanese tastes.  However, when beef became a more “specialized” protein, the prices went up, and pork began finding its way into the mix.  Since the 1960s, Japanese Hamburg Steak (Hambagu) contains

meat patties made from a mix of ground beef and pork, sautéed onions, garlic, eggs, panko bread crumbs, and milk.  Seasonings added are salt, pepper, and soy sauce while the sauce is a mixture of Worcestershire sauce, ketchup and sake.  Very similar to a homemade meat loaf recipe.  This is served with the ever-present bowl of rice.

So, next time you are dining on Salisbury steak, Swiss steak, or a juicy gourmet hamburger with all the fixings, do not feel guilty as it was just what the doctor ordered.

 

Salisbury Steak

 

Ingredients:

5 lbs. lean ground beef

1 cup each diced mushrooms and onions

1 cup beef broth

1 ½ cups plain dried bread crumbs

2 tsp. each salt and ground black pepper

1 Tbsp. garlic powder

2 Tbsp. butter

2 large onions, slivered

Gravy:

3 Tbsp. flour

2 (10.5 oz) cans cream of mushroom soup

2 cups milk

1 cup beef broth

1 (3/4 oz.) packet brown gravy mix

Preparation:

Preheat oven to 400F.  Spray a large jelly roll pan with nonstick cooking spray.

 

In a large bowl, mix together beef, mushrooms, onions, broth, bread crumbs and seasonings thoroughly.  Use a 1 cup measuring cup to scoop out mixture and make oval shaped “steaks”; flatten down to 1” thick; place on spray pan.  Bake in oven for 30 minutes.

In a large bowl, whisk together all ingredients listed under “Gravy”.

In a large skillet, melt butter on medium-high heat; sauté onions until softened.  Pour gravy over onions; mix and bring to a boil; reduce heat to low.  Remove steaks, dabbing on paper towels to remove excess grease, and immerse into gravy-onion mixture.  Cover and let simmer for 20 minutes.

Serve over buttered noodles, rice or potatoes.

Makes 10 servings.

 

Swiss Steak

Ingredients:

2 lbs. cubed steak

1 tsp. each garlic powder, ground black pepper

¼ tsp. sea salt

1/ 2 cup flour

1/3 cup canola oil or peanut oil

1 Tbsp. minced garlic

1 large onion, slivered

1 large red bell pepper, cut into strips

1 cup mushrooms, sliced

1 (14.5 oz) can diced tomatoes

1 cup beef broth

Preparation:

Season both sides of steak with garlic powder, pepper and salt; lightly dust with flour. Heat oil, on high, in a large skillet; lightly brown both sides of steak; set on paper towels to remove excess oil.

Spray a 4-5 qt crock pot with non-stick spray. Place steaks in pot with garlic, onion, bell pepper and mushrooms on top. Spread diced tomatoes evenly over vegetables; pour broth over tomatoes. Set on low; cook for 6-8 hours, until meat is very tender.

Serve over noodles or rice.

Makes 6 servings.

Japanese Hamburg Steak

If you are interested in the Japanese version, here is a link to a good recipe:  https://norecipes.com/hamburg-steak-hambagu/

 Mary Cokenour