Rolling With the Beef.

This article will be visiting the countries of Germany, France and Italy, and the technique of rolling beef.  Now if beef is not on your household menu, yes, you can use pork or chicken.  As to “plant based” or “fake” meat, sorry, we don’t use it, don’t eat it, and can’t help with adjusting any recipes including it.  So, back to beef…

In the 1700s, a savory dish, called Rinderrouladen, became popular within the German Empire, especially in the state of Prussia (area which is now Berlin).  “Rouladen” is the German variation of the term “roulade”, meaning “to roll”, from the French.  Thin beef slices were rolled around a filling of mustard, bacon, onions, and pickles; then braised in a sauce or gravy.  Surprisingly, this recipe was often used by the lower classes as it helped to stretch out the amount of food available.  In Italy, this technique became known as Braciole with a stuffing of bread crumbs, cheese, herbs and pine nuts; braised in a tomato-based sauce. The French, however, took their roulades to higher levels by, either baking the beef rolls in pastry and serving with gravy as a side, or creating decadent desserts.  Have you ever had the traditional “Yule Log” cake?  This is actually the Bûche de Noël, a sponge cake rolled around a filling of cream, jam or fruit filling; served as is, or outwardly decorated for the holiday.

When I consider making a recipe, I will often ask Roy’s opinion, “Did you like this dish last time?”, “Do you think I should change anything?”.  After finding thinly sliced round steak (sometimes labeled as Milanese), I asked hubby, “Do you want Braciole, or something entirely different?”, and he wanted the different.  So, this is when we start throwing around ideas, like, “Remember the side of sauteed mushrooms and onions made with ribeye steaks once before? What if I made up some cornbread stuffing and mixed in the mushrooms and onions with it?"  Well, he thought about it, and thought about it, and decided that rolling the steak around that type of mixture sounded really good.  Wow, a married couple that actually discuss dining ideas!

It wasn't difficult to put together, however, rolling the steak the traditional "Braciole" way wouldn't do, as the stuffing was too bulky this time.  It was better to just draw one end over the stuffing, pull over the other end and then seal the sides with toothpicks.  Basically, I was making an enchilada type roll using steak instead of tortillas.   Beef broth was used as the cooking liquid, strained and then made into a rich gravy.  I did not season the steak before I began working with it; the inside will pick up flavors from the stuffing, while the exterior will be absorbing flavors from the broth.  Yes, I keep boxes, or bags, of stuffing mix or seasoned stuffing cubes in the home; it works great for those spontaneous recipes that call for it.  However, if you have an awesome cornbread stuffing recipe of your own, use it!

 

 

Beef Roulade aka Stuffed Steak Rolls

Ingredients:

4 Tbsp. olive oil

1 large onion, chopped

1/2 tsp. each salt, ground black pepper, garlic powder

1 lb. sliced mushrooms (if large slices, cut in half)

1 (6 oz.) box of cornbread stuffing

2 and 1/2 lbs. (8 pieces) thinly sliced round steak

2 cups (16 oz.) beef broth

2 Tbsp. cornstarch

Preparation:

Heat olive oil in a large skillet, medium-high heat; spread out onions, sprinkle seasoning over them, spread out mushrooms over the onions.  Let cook for 3 minutes before mixing the onions and mushrooms together; let cook another 3 minutes before removing from heat.  At the same time, prepare the cornbread stuffing according to package directions; add the sautéed mixture to stuffing and mix together thoroughly.

Cornbread Stuffing

Mushrooms and Onions

 

Stuffing Mixture

 

 

 

Preheat oven to 350F; spray a 4-quart baking dish with nonstick cooking spray.  Onto the center of each slice of steak, put a half cup of stuffing keeping it in a mound.  Any extra stuffing can be served as a garnish to the side of the rolls when served.

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

Fold one end of the steak over the stuffing; fold the other end over the first; seal the ends with toothpicks and place the roll into the baking dish.  Once all the rolls are done, and in the dish, pour the beef broth over the rolls; cover the baking dish with aluminum foil.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bake for 30 minutes covered; uncover, spoon broth over rolls; bake for an additional 10 minutes.  Remove rolls from baking dish; strain liquid and pour into a small saucepan.  On high heat, whisk in cornstarch and bring to a boil; continue to boil for 3 minutes before serving over the steak rolls.

 

Makes 8 servings.

 

Side Dish Suggestions: take two large zucchini and cut ¼-inch slices; either round, or hold the knife at an angle to make oval slices; lightly season both sides of the slices with ground black pepper.  Heat four tablespoons of olive oil in a large skillet on medium-high heat; place the zucchini into the skillet and brown both sides; about 3 to 5 minutes per side.  Remove the slices to a serving bowl and season with medium crushed sea salt; it will give a salty surprise crunch to the zucchini.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Makes 8 servings.

~ Or~

Roasted Vegetables

Ingredients:

1 head of cauliflower, broken up

1 head of broccoli, florets split apart, stems cut up

2 lbs. Brussel sprouts (remove stem ends and cut in half if very large)

1 small onion, diced

1 cup olive oil

¼ cup minced garlic

1 tsp. ground black pepper

2 tsp. fine sea salt

Preparation:

Preheat oven to 400F; spray 4-quart baking dish with nonstick spray.

In a large bowl, combine all ingredients; spread out evenly inside baking dish; cover dish with aluminum foil.  One hour into baking, remove foil, mix vegetables up from bottom to top.  Replace foil and bake for another 15 minutes; mix again before serving.

Makes 8 servings.

 

Option: Substitute cut up yellow or red potatoes for one of the vegetables, or add in 2 lbs. to make the side dish more substantial.  If the latter, add ½ cup olive oil to the mix. Increase heat to 425F, add 15 minutes to final baking without foil to ensure potatoes are thoroughly baked.

For a brighter mixture, add sliced carrots and/or red bell peppers; two cups plus 1/4 cup olive oil.  Keep temperature at 400F, unless potatoes are being used as well, then 425F.

Mary Cokenour

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Good Heavens That is Good Gravy.

Gravy making, why does it seem to be so complicated? Growing up, the only gravy I remember having at a meal was at Thanksgiving time, and it was not homemade, but came out of a can. During my first marriage I would watch my, then, mother-in-law make a slurry of flour, garlic powder and water, pour it into the meat drippings to create a lumpy, oily mess. Not very good examples for making my own gravy, and thus avoided the issue whenever I could. Thank you, thank you, thank you for whomever invented the crock pot; not just for the easy cooking it afforded the home cook, but for the luscious stock that could be made into a stupendous gravy.

"Impossible!", you say; "Cannot make gravy without drippings from roasted meat or poultry!", you say...yep, you can.  First off, I will tell you how by using the crock pot; secondly from drippings out of a roasting pan, without adding butter, cream or extra flour.  Being fair here by giving the choice of crock pot or roasting pan, and not absently dismissing the traditional roasting method.  Now sit back, relax and have a good read...

Scenario: Making pot roast in a crock pot; put your meat in first, but before you put it in, coat it liberally with flour (this is all you will need for that gravy later on); put in your veggies, seasonings and then pour two cups of beef stock over it all; cover, set it and forget it till done.  If making poultry, use chicken stock instead, but use the same coating with flour and veggies over the top process.

 

Gravy brings a pot roast dinner all together.

The meat is done, put it on a platter to rest with 3/4 of the vegetables.  Looking into the crock pot, you will see an oily sheen on top; that is the oil that came out of your meat or poultry during the cooking process.  Do not worry, we are going to get rid of that easily, and not lose any flavor.

 

Pureed vegetables will thicken the gravy.

The liquid inside the pot is also thin; the flour you coated the meat in was not enough to thicken, but just enough to help with the process.  The 1/4 portion of vegetables that you left inside is going to be your true thickener.  What is neat about this is that anyone that refuses to eat their veggies, but loves gravy, is going to eat veggies and not even know.  Well, they will if you tell them, but we are keeping this a secret, right? Of course, you can leave bits of veggies if you like, so long as no one you are serving is a problem eater.

 

Bits of veggies hidden in the gravy.

 

Now, you all know how I love my immersion blender, but if you still have not purchased your own (why not!?!), then a regular blender will do.  Begin pulverizing the vegetables inside the pot, being careful not to raise the blender too high and splash the liquid around the kitchen.  Not only will the soon to be gravy be thickening up, but you will see it turn to a rich color; you will be tempted to serve it as is, but patience grasshopper, patience.

 

 

To get the oil out of your gravy, pour the amount of pureed liquid you need into a plastic container and place into the freezer for one hour.  Take the container out of the freezer and you will see that the fats have solidified on top; carefully spoon them out and do not forget to scrape it off the sides of the container too. You will probably have a lot more gravy left over which can be defatted, frozen and reheated when needed; because you did not use any dairy in its making, the chance of separating is none. 

Place in freezer safe plastic container.

 

Scrape off the fat solids.

 

 

 

To serve, just warm up the gravy; no further seasonings need to be added, especially salt which would have come from the stock you initially used when cooking your meat.  If you really need to have a smooth gravy, go ahead and strain out all the little bits that the blender could not pulverize.  We like it rustic; it proves that it is homemade, not out of some can or jar.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The color of the gravy depends on what vegetables were used during the cooking process. More carrots and tomatoes give a redder coloring.

Ok, now for the roasted part of this post; you are going to need a deep roasting pan for this process.  Either use a rack to lay your meat or poultry on, or a very thick layer of cut up vegetables will work too.  In the pan, lay out all your cut up vegetables and sprinkle a little flour over all of them; pour your stock over all; then place the rack with meat, or the meat itself on top and roast until done.  Oh, do not forget to season your meat or poultry; as the fat melts, it will take some of the seasoning with it and add it to the veggies down below.  Now just follow the same gravy making process as I explained for the crock pot; you just might want to transfer your liquid and 1/4 portion to a deep bowl first though. 

How come I did not use any water in the crock pot or roasting pan?  The vegetables gave me all I needed; during the cooking process, they sweated out their excess moisture, so adding water at the beginning would have thinned out the gravy way too much at the end.

Making gravy is not so hard after all; just remember to not additional seasonings until after the process is done and you have tasted the end product.  You will be very surprised.  Enjoy!

Mary Cokenour

 

 

Beef is Just What the Doctor Ordered.

A classic meal, not just in the United States, but in many other countries, is the hamburger.  I am not referring to the minuscule hockey pucks sold at too many fast-food places.  I am not referring to the one-inch-thick rounds of seasoned meat, dripping with juices, layered between a bun and topped with anything your heart desires.  No, I am talking about an actual meal that consists of the hamburger as the star, served with a rich gravy, over rice, egg noodles or mashed potatoes.

In the USA, we know this meal as Salisbury Steak, but its origin is not here, or in any other English-speaking country, as the name might imply.  The original hamburger steak with gravy originated in Hamburg, Germany.  It was in the 1800s that immigrants from Germany brought this recipe to, not just America, but into England as well.  At this time, during the Meiji Era, Japan finally opened its borders to foreigners.  This opened up this region to cuisines from the USA, England, and India (Where do you think the Brits and Japanese got their love of curry from!”).

Back to Salisbury Steak which was named after Dr. James Henry Salisbury.  He was a general physician, but had a great interest in gastrointestinal health, digestion and nutrition.  During the Civil War, he noticed that the main diet of the soldiers was bread, a broth-like soup with some vegetables added, and fruit.  That is if fresh fruit and vegetables were available.  Dr. Salisbury deduced that even though the soldiers were eating, their bodies were actually starving from the lack of protein.  By introducing some type of meat (he focused on beef and pork), thickening the broth with “hard tack” biscuits, and adding vegetables, a more nutritious meal could be served to the soldiers, both North and South.

Ah, now how did Salisbury Steak become a popular dish, for not just those dining in restaurants, but for the populace in general?  Remember those German immigrants from Hamburg?  Coming into the USA, their ships landed in New York City, home to many famous restaurants like Delmonico’s.  Yes, you guessed it.  The chefs of Delmonico’s came up with a fancified version of the Hamburg steak, but then took it to another level.  Swiss Steak, which did not originate in Switzerland at all, is similar to the Hamburg steak recipe, but instead of ground meat, it uses actual steak that is tenderized by the” cubing” method.  “Cubing”?  The beef is pounded out and flattened to help tenderize cheaper cuts.  If you have eaten country fried/chicken fried steak, then you have eaten cubed steak.  Anyway, back to Delmonico’s who, with their innovative culinary techniques, were able to sell, to the rich and famous, dishes that any ordinary citizen could make as well.

After WW2, beef, in Japan, became more readily available and at a cheap price. Housewives, and restaurants, were able to take the Hamburg recipe and adjust it to Japanese tastes.  However, when beef became a more “specialized” protein, the prices went up, and pork began finding its way into the mix.  Since the 1960s, Japanese Hamburg Steak (Hambagu) contains

meat patties made from a mix of ground beef and pork, sautéed onions, garlic, eggs, panko bread crumbs, and milk.  Seasonings added are salt, pepper, and soy sauce while the sauce is a mixture of Worcestershire sauce, ketchup and sake.  Very similar to a homemade meat loaf recipe.  This is served with the ever-present bowl of rice.

So, next time you are dining on Salisbury steak, Swiss steak, or a juicy gourmet hamburger with all the fixings, do not feel guilty as it was just what the doctor ordered.

 

Salisbury Steak

 

Ingredients:

5 lbs. lean ground beef

1 cup each diced mushrooms and onions

1 cup beef broth

1 ½ cups plain dried bread crumbs

2 tsp. each salt and ground black pepper

1 Tbsp. garlic powder

2 Tbsp. butter

2 large onions, slivered

Gravy:

3 Tbsp. flour

2 (10.5 oz) cans cream of mushroom soup

2 cups milk

1 cup beef broth

1 (3/4 oz.) packet brown gravy mix

Preparation:

Preheat oven to 400F.  Spray a large jelly roll pan with nonstick cooking spray.

 

In a large bowl, mix together beef, mushrooms, onions, broth, bread crumbs and seasonings thoroughly.  Use a 1 cup measuring cup to scoop out mixture and make oval shaped “steaks”; flatten down to 1” thick; place on spray pan.  Bake in oven for 30 minutes.

In a large bowl, whisk together all ingredients listed under “Gravy”.

In a large skillet, melt butter on medium-high heat; sauté onions until softened.  Pour gravy over onions; mix and bring to a boil; reduce heat to low.  Remove steaks, dabbing on paper towels to remove excess grease, and immerse into gravy-onion mixture.  Cover and let simmer for 20 minutes.

Serve over buttered noodles, rice or potatoes.

Makes 10 servings.

 

Swiss Steak

Ingredients:

2 lbs. cubed steak

1 tsp. each garlic powder, ground black pepper

¼ tsp. sea salt

1/ 2 cup flour

1/3 cup canola oil or peanut oil

1 Tbsp. minced garlic

1 large onion, slivered

1 large red bell pepper, cut into strips

1 cup mushrooms, sliced

1 (14.5 oz) can diced tomatoes

1 cup beef broth

Preparation:

Season both sides of steak with garlic powder, pepper and salt; lightly dust with flour. Heat oil, on high, in a large skillet; lightly brown both sides of steak; set on paper towels to remove excess oil.

Spray a 4-5 qt crock pot with non-stick spray. Place steaks in pot with garlic, onion, bell pepper and mushrooms on top. Spread diced tomatoes evenly over vegetables; pour broth over tomatoes. Set on low; cook for 6-8 hours, until meat is very tender.

Serve over noodles or rice.

Makes 6 servings.

Japanese Hamburg Steak

If you are interested in the Japanese version, here is a link to a good recipe:  https://norecipes.com/hamburg-steak-hambagu/

 Mary Cokenour

The Beef on the Battle of Waterloo.

Happy New Year 2024!  As usual, our celebration was quiet, sort of.  We indulged in take-out from Ja-Roen Thai and Sushi; their Ja-Roen Roll is quite addicting.  While Roy was at work, wishing good cheer to travelers passing through Monticello, our neighbors put on a fireworks display at midnight.  By quarter after midnight, all was quiet, so hunkering down for a relaxing sleep was the last of the New Year’s Eve to-do list.

During the weeks before the Christmas holiday, much baking and cooking was done by yours truly.  Besides the yearly treats given out, prepping and planning went into meals, not just for ourselves, but for Roy’s mother and brother down in Moab.  So, that week between Christmas and New Year’s was definitely one of limbo.  I rightly cannot say what I did, overall, during that week.  I know I had intentions, one being writing, but as I stared at the computer screen, the photos and words refused to come into focus.  It was not so much a case of writer’s block, but one of “writer’s brain vacation”.

Ah, but now it is the New Year, the bullet train of holidays is at the depot for maintenance.  The coming months will still have a holiday, or two, but none that will make us go into hyperdrive; we hope.  What did I create for the Christmas holiday of 2023?  By request, from Roy, he wondered if I would make a dish, one he had only once before, but remembered well.  That dish was Beef Wellington sans the liver pate, but stuffed with a rich mixture of mushrooms and red onions.  Recipe history time!

 

Beef Wellington and Potatoes Au Gratin

 

In Britain, the development of Beef Wellington is attributed to Arthur Wellesley, 1st Duke of Wellington, whose army helped to defeat Napoleon Bonaparte, at the Battle of Waterloo (1815).  However, the encasing of some type of meat within a dough was a technique used in France, England, and even in Poland, for centuries before hand.  Culinary historians think that the dish was named, actually, after a style of boot that the 1^st Duke wore, coincidentally named the “Wellington boot”.  Why?  Supposedly the structure of the meat within the dough, once baked, resembled the boot, and was served during the celebration of Napoleon’s humiliating defeat.  I guess this could be equated to Britian “stepping on the little guy and showing him who’s boss”.

Traditionally, the recipe for Beef Wellington comes from France.  It consists of a beef tenderloin wrapped in layers of pâté (goose liver), duxelles (finely chopped mixture of mushrooms), Parma ham (aka prosciutto), wrapped in puff pastry, then baked.  The tenderloin is typically about 1 and ½ lbs. and kept cold before wrapped in its layers and baked.  After baking for one hour, the meat is extremely rare and dripping with flavorful juices.  However, the meat can be seen as equivalent to raw, with the additional liquid from the pate and mushrooms creating a soggy texture within.  Though it looks impressive, this type of dish takes a lot of prep work if you want it to come out correctly.  Discouraged?  Do not give up before even trying!  Remember, this is a new year, and for those who like to cook, and especially try new recipes, make this your year of bravery.  What is bravery?  Being scared of doing something, but doing it anyway!  So, the new motto for 2024 is, “Be brave and do it anyway!”

Now, in our household, goose liver, or any type of liver, will not be on our menu; and we are not huge fans of ham either.  Therefore, my recipe for Beef Wellington will be just that, the way I do it, but that does not mean you cannot give the original recipe a try.  For the mushrooms, typically only white, brown or Portobello can be found, and all of them work well for this dish.  Using fancy mushrooms, like Chanterelles, can be pricey, and once diced up, well no one will be able to tell the difference between them, and a cheaper white mushroom.  For the beef, look for a lean cut, but do not allow it to break your bank; while a beautiful eye round roast could be $10/lb., a London broil, at half the price, works very well.  Also, in the original recipe, the roast is covered, raw, in layers of pate, mushrooms and ham before being encased in the puff pastry.  With my technique, the meat is butterflied open with the mushroom/onion filling rolled within the meat itself.  Once completed, and cut into slices, it still becomes a pretty presentation on the plate.

 

Gravy draped over.

Sitting atop gravy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Beef Wellington

 

Ingredients:

2 Tbsp. olive oil

2 Tbsp. butter

1 large red onion, diced

½ lb. mushrooms, diced

¼ cup beef broth

2 lb. London broil (trim off as much fat as possible, the leaner the better)

½ tsp. salt

¼ tsp. ground black pepper

1 Tbsp. crushed, dried thyme leaves

1 sheet thawed puff pastry (Pepperidge Farm brand recommended)

1 egg, beaten

Preparation:

 

In a medium sized skillet, on low heat, melt butter into oil; sauté mushrooms and onion for 20 minutes.  Raise heat to high, add broth and allow to cook down for 7-10 minutes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cut the London broil lengthwise, through the center, but not all the way through, leave about ½ inch on long side, and open up (this is butterflying open the meat).  With a meat mallet, pound out the meat to about ¼ inch thickness.  Mix together salt, black pepper and thyme, sprinkle over interior of the meat.  The mushroom/onion mixture should be cool enough to handle, spread evenly over the meat, leaving ½ inch clean around the edges.  Carefully begin to roll the meat, stuffing back any filling that might come out the sides.  Seam side up, wrap tightly in aluminum foil and place inside refrigerator for 2 hours.

 

Preheat oven to 425F.  In a large skillet, high heat, seam side down, brown meat; rotate till all meat has been browned.  Rewrap into aluminum foil, place inside pan and roast for 50-60 minutes, or internal temperature reads “Rare”.  Remove from oven and let rest; keep oven on.

 

 

 

 

While meat is resting, sprinkle flour on board, or clean counter top, and roll out puff pastry to double its original size.  Remove meat from foil, and place in center of pastry. Brush edges with beaten egg and fold pastry over long sides first from top of pastry to bottom.  Take one end of pastry, drape over meat and rest of remaining pastry.  Take other end of pastry and fold over both remaining pastry and already covered meat.  Tuck seam under the entire roll, and place inside baking pan.  If desired, indent pastry with a design, being careful not to cut all the way through the dough.  Bake 20-25 minutes, or until puff pastry is golden brown.

Remove from oven and let rest for 15 minutes to allow juices to redistribute inside the meat.  Cut one inch slice per serving.

Makes 10-12 servings, dependent on how long butterflied meat was pounded out to.

The directions might read a little confusing, especially wrapping the meat inside the pastry.  If you have ever made burritos, it is similar to this procedure.  As I stated before though, make 2024 the year of being brave, and no matter how difficult a recipe might read, try it anyway!

Mary Cokenour