National Italian Food Day - February 13, 2025

 “When the moon hits your eye,

Like a big pizza pie, that's amore.

When the world seems to shine,

Like you've had too much wine, that's amore.”

That’s Amore, sung by Dean Martin (sigh, oh Dino!), 1953.

According to another national food holiday calendar, February 7^th is Fettuccine Alfredo Day; 9^th is Pizza Pie Day; 13^th is Tortellini, and Italian Food Day; 18^th is Drink Wine Day.  While I would love to regale you in the art of pizza making once again (yes, I can be quite obsessive about pizza), let’s just focus on Italian food.

In Italy, the most commonly used salad dressing is a simple mixture of extra virgin olive oil, red wine vinegar, salt, and pepper, referred to as "olio e aceto" which translates to "oil and vinegar".  This simplistic dressing is used to compliment the ingredients within the salad itself, so the flavor of each item can actually be tasted.  Typically, fresh herbs such as basil, oregano, rosemary, thyme, and parsley are served, at the table, in small bowls, so they may be added to a salad, if desired.

More complex dressings such as ranch, bleu cheese and thousand island overwhelm and mask the flavors of meats and vegetables.  So, when ordering salad, at many a restaurant, one option offered, usually, is “oil and vinegar” which comes in separate bottles, and you add as much as you like, plus salt and pepper of course.

At any food store, Italian dressing is always on the shelf, along with the other dressings I have mentioned.  Many years ago, a commercial pushed the use of bottled Italian salad dressing as a marinade; and it was posted on many food sites as well.  Remember the shaker bottle that you added oil, water, vinegar and a packet of dressing mix to; I still have mine and it still comes in handy.  Time to burst a bubble and take a look at what is in a typical brand name Italian salad dressing: VINEGAR, WATER, SOYBEAN OIL, CANOLA OIL, SUGAR, SALT, CONTAINS LESS THAN 2% OF GARLIC*, GARLIC, RED BELL PEPPERS*, ONIONS*, XANTHAN GUM, SPICE, OLEORESIN PAPRIKA, POTASSIUM SORBATE AND CALCIUM DISODIUM EDTA (TO PROTECT FRESHNESS). *DRIED.   Oh, that looks simply yummy, right?  Not!

Now to compare the bottled brand to homemade.  First ingredient is vinegar, but what type?  I use balsamic which has a deep, rich flavor and scent.  Soybean and canola oils?  This is Italian dressing, so use extra virgin olive oil.  Dried garlic?  Nope, use minced garlic that has been preserved in, what else, olive oil; or mince your own. Where are the herbs?  While I use crushed rosemary, basil, oregano, thyme and parsley; the bottled brand uses...none?   While the manufacturer is using paprika to make the dressing "zesty", use a pinch of crushed red pepper flakes (aka cayenne pepper flakes).  The onions and red bell peppers, oh mine are coming later on darlings, and you will so love it.  Notice the manufacturer uses water; even when using that dressing packet mix, it asks for water.  Well now, how else are you going to rehydrate all those dried ingredients?

Let’s get to a recipe that will be most enjoyable on February 13^th while we all celebrate National Italian Food Day.  Oh wait, the next day is Valentine’s Day; maybe serve it on the 14^th instead, and savor the food, and much amore later on?

 

Italian Dressing Chicken

 

Ingredients:

4 (1/2 lb. each) boneless, skinless chicken breasts halves; or 8 (1/4 lb. each chicken cutlets)

1/2 cup balsamic vinegar

2 cups olive oil

2 Tbsp. dried, crushed Italian herb mixture (basil, rosemary, oregano, thyme and parsley)

2 Tbsp. minced garlic

1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes

1 each medium sized yellow, red and orange bell peppers; seeded and julienned

1 large red onion; peeled and julienned

 

Preparation:

 

If you are purchasing the chicken breasts halves, make sure they are partially frozen before slicing them.  Place your hand on top of the chicken and carefully draw your knife lengthwise throughout the piece to form two 1/4 lb. cutlets.  Place the chicken cutlets into a large plastic, sealable bag.  Chicken cutlets?  Yeah, it is an Italian thing, so just go with the flow.

 

To make the dressing, simply pour the vinegar, oil, herbs, garlic and red pepper flakes into your shaker bottle, or a medium sized bowl; shake the bottle to mix or whisk in the bowl.  Set 1/4 cup of the mixture aside and pour the remainder into the plastic bag.  Work the dressing throughout the chicken, seal the bag and refrigerate for a minimum of two hours, but no more than four hours.

 

Preheat the oven to 350F; have a nonstick jellyroll pan ready (baking sheet with a 1/4-inch lip on all sides).   Heat a nonstick large skillet on medium-high heat; place 4 pieces of chicken into the skillet and sear for two minutes on each side; transfer the chicken to the jellyroll pan.  Repeat with the next 4 pieces; wipe any residue out of the skillet.  Place the pan into the oven and finish cooking the chicken off for seven minutes.

 

Sear Chicken.

 

Finish Cooking Chicken In Oven.

 

Take the reserved 1/4 cup of marinade, place it in the skillet, medium-high heat again; and toss to coat the julienned bell peppers and onions.  This will continue to cook in the skillet during the seven minutes the chicken is finishing up in the oven.  Occasionally move the vegetables around as you are using minced garlic and you do not want to allow it to brown or burn.

 

 

 

Here comes the real fun for serving this dish; the first choice is a piece of chicken with a side of the peppers and onions; do not forget to serve crusty bread on the side.  Second choice, slice up the chicken into strips, place on a sub roll with peppers and onions for a new take on the old favorite of sausage with peppers and onions.  This is a great substitute for people who do not eat pork or red meat, but do eat poultry.  The chicken itself is so full of flavor from the marinade, fork tender and dripping with juiciness.  The balsamic vinegar truly brings out the sweetness of the bell peppers and red onion, so no need to add any sugar as they do in manufactured bottled dressings.

 

This recipe makes 8 servings, but can be easily cut down for lesser portions, but why would you want to?  Can the chicken be cooked on an outdoor grill?  Of course, but make extra marinade, for basting, as the chicken grills.  So, welcome February, celebrate National Italian Food Day, and enjoy the homemade!

Mary Cokenour

Celebrating Korean Cuisine.

According to another “National Food Days” calendar I found, January 13^th is National Korean-American Day.  Which, of course, got me to thinking about my experiences with Korean cuisine, and how few they were.  It was not till the middle to later 2000s that Korean food began to make an appearance in the food truck scene.  Korean “tacos” became all the rage, and suddenly restaurants began opening offering Korean style “barbecue”. 

Korean barbecue is called Bulgogi which translates to “fire meat”, and, originally, it was only a beef dish.  Pork and chicken are now included as folks wanted more of a variety.  The marinade used for beef is also used for pork, and chicken has a more subtle type. Let’s take a step backwards, in time, and see how this recipe originated.

A quote, from an article in Smithsonian Magazine, about Bulgogi, sums up its historical background, “According to the peer-reviewed Korea Journal, the dish’s origins stretch back to the Goguryeo era (37 B.C. to 668 A.D.), the evolution of a kabob-like skewered meat preparation called maekjeok. Over time, maekjeok became seoryamyeok, a brothy dish of marinated beef soaked in cold water, which by the early 20th century gave way to neobiani, a luxurious dish of thinly-sliced, marinated and charbroiled beef favored by Korean royalty.”  In other words, the recipe began with grilling, turned into a sort of soup, and then returned to being grilled.

 

               Kimchi, Savory Korean Pancakes with Grilled Salmon and Chopped Vegetables.

Bulgogi Beef, Bulgogi Inside Egg Roll Wraps and Deep Fried, Bulgogi Chicken Lettuce Wraps, 

 

I have tried all three meats, in various forms, which gives a variety of taste, texture and scent.  Beef wrapped in egg roll wrappers and deep fried adds crunch to the tender beef while an explosion of sauce bursts forth.  Thinly sliced pork plus the addition of thinly sliced raw, and crunchy, vegetables, wrapped in lettuce leaves has a fresher flavor combination.  Pieces of marinated and grilled chicken, topped over steamed rice, has more of a comfort food aura surrounding it.  If doing the lettuce wrap sounds enticing, use a type of butter lettuce such as Bibb or Boston.  The leaves are smaller than iceberg or romaine, sweeter in taste and more pliable for wrapping around ingredients.

There are various methods to making Bulgogi:

Grills

Tabletop grill or small barbecue is the traditional method.

Wood chip barbecue grill gives a smokier flavor addition to the meats.

Charcoal grill: The marinade, juices, and fats drip onto the coals, burn, and then come back to “smoke” the meats.

Pans

Cast iron pan: Retains heat well which allows for even cooking and a better sear.

Griddle: Can be used on the stovetop or on a grill

Skillet: Can be used to cook thin slices of meat 

 

Bulgogi Beef and Deep Fried Inside Egg Roll Wrappers

 

Now for the marinades, for beef and pork (using 2 lbs. of meat), the ingredients are:

6 Tbsp. soy sauce (low salt is fine too)  

3 Tbsp. brown sugar

2 Tbsp. Japanese rice wine aka Mirin

1 cup of peeled and diced red apple, Asian pear or pineapple.

¼ cup diced onion

1 Tbsp. minced garlic

1 tsp. minced ginger

1/8 tsp. ground black pepper

 

Bulgogi Chicken Lettuce Wraps

The marinade ingredients for chicken (using 1 lb.) are:

3 Tbsp. soy sauce (low salt is fine too)

1 and ½ Tbsp. brown sugar

1 Tbsp. Japanese rice wine aka Mirin

2 Tbsp. lemon juice

1/2 Tbsp. minced garlic

1 tsp. minced ginger

1 tsp. sesame oil

Pinch of ground black pepper

Preparation is similar for all meats:

Thinly slice beef or pork; cut up, into 1-inch pieces, the chicken; place in sealable container. 

Place all ingredients for marinade into blender and blend until smooth.  Pour over meat in container, mix to coat, seal and refrigerate for four hours.  Remove meat from marinade and grill on medium-high heat.

The excess marinade can be put into a small pan, high heat, and reduce to a thicker sauce for the grilled meat.

 

Kimchi

 

A traditional Korean side dish is Kimchi which is a salted and fermented vegetable, usually Napa cabbage or Koran radish.  The seasonings added are Korean chili powder, spring onions, garlic, ginger, and jeotgal (a salted seafood).  Korean chili powder is called gochutgaru which has a vibrant red color, the texture may vary from fine powder to flakes, and the heat level from mildly hot to very hot.  In Northern Korean, kimchi is on the milder side of hot, while in Southern Korean, they like it hot-hot-hot.  Kimchi is eaten on a global scale, and can often be found at Asian restaurants offering a buffet menu.  Kimchi is similar to sauerkraut, since they both are typically made within ceramic containers.  However, the kimchi process is shorter in time and is spicy in nature, while sauerkraut is sour.

 

 

Savory Korean Pancakes with Grilled Salmon and Chopped Vegetables.

Leftover bulgogi, if there is any, and kimchi can be used to make Korean pancakes.  These pancakes are of a more savory nature than the typical breakfast pancake we eat in the USA.

A batter of flour and egg is pan-fried with chopped vegetables, meats and seasonings having been added to the batter, and is similar to a fritter.  The dipping sauce for the pancakes is a combination of soy sauce, Japanese rice wine and red pepper flakes.

Pancake Batter with Added Ingredients

 

Fry One Side.

Flip and Fry Other Side

If you are lucky, and happen to live in an area which has Korean restaurants or food trucks, and stores to buy ingredients, do yourself the favor and try this cuisine.  If not, online shopping will provide the ingredients, and making it at home can be a great experience in learning something new.

Mary Cokenour

 

 

 

Roy Cokenour Reviews His Wife’s Cooking.

Review by Roy Cokenour with Notes by Mary Cokenour

 

 

As many are aware, my wife, Mary, writes a food column for our local paper, The San Juan Record; and also has her own food blog, Food Adventures of a Comfort Cook.  She has often reviewed restaurants, other food related businesses, products and gadgets.  I am, of course, her main guinea pig for food experiments worked up in Mary’s lab, aka kitchen.  So, is it any wonder that I believe it is time for someone to review her culinary skills?  …and here I go.

 

First sampled was the tortellini salad. Diced purple onions, homemade balsamic dressing transported me immediately to the Grecian Islands. The dish beckoned me to float in the blue waters of the Mediterranean Sea, making me eager to taste the skewers of chicken, peppers and mushrooms.

 

 

 

 

Laying a half skewer portion onto Naan bread, Feta cheese added which infused its rich flavor into the grilled meat and vegetables. A golden light fell upon me, a warm wind torn at my clothes, as if I was inside a culinary whirlwind.  The flavor of the marinaded chicken and grilled vegetables were caught in a net of soft, warm, unleavened bread.  I was in food heaven!  

 

And then, I partook of the German Bratwurst.

Okay. Mary makes a friggin’ awesome Bratwurst. Cooked perfectly on the grill, sauteed onions and peppers, and a touch of spicy mustard, on a toasted bun. Perfecto!!  But when she said German Style Bratwurst I was immediately intrigued. I was unprepared for this divine culinary experience however.

Glistening on a toasted bun, sauteed onions and peppers draped over the crisp, split skin of the sausage. Nostrils flaring!  What was that enticing scent!?! Something smoky, sweet, and a subtle hint of savory spices. I took my first bite. The already split skin of the sausage snapped and I felt the drums of ancient Germanic tribes’ pulse through me. The flavor thrummed in my mouth and I heard the voice of my ancestors calling. “Come warrior! Eat, drink and be merry!”

The texture and flavor washed over me and the gates of Valhalla opened. The sauteed onions and peppers combined with the perfectly grilled Bratwurst, lifting me up on wings of ecstasy. A chorus of deep Viking voices welcomed me. “SKALL!”, they cried, and I felt myself surrounded by my brethren. My lovely wife, my Hearth Maiden, smiled at me and I saw the Valkyrie in her raise an axe in victory.

I was smitten! My will shattered! No other sausage can compare. I slumped at the table, defeated, yet wildly exhilarated.

Roy Cokenour

 

Notes:

First off, thanks to my loving husband for this ecstatic review of my cooking and grilling.

 

Besides the Smoked German Brand Sausage, there was also Old-Fashioned Frankfurters.  These were purchased at Blue Mountain Foods, and a product of Hill’s Premium Meats (Hill Meat Company) of Pendleton, Oregon.  Family owned and operated; this company has been providing quality meat products since 1947.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The frozen tortellini, Feta cheese, Naan bread, chicken tenderloins, mini-bell peppers, whole mushrooms and onions (white and purple) were all purchased at Blue Mountain Foods as well.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Marinade for the chicken tenderloins (18 in count) was one cup olive oil, ¼ cup balsamic vinegar, one heaping tablespoon minced garlic and two teaspoons of Italian herbal mix.  In a large, sealable container, place the chicken tenderloins (small white ligament previously removed from each) and pour the marinade over; use a hand to thoroughly coat the chicken with the marinade. Seal container and marinade overnight.  Do not marinade the peppers and mushrooms.

 

 

For the skewers, alternate bell pepper chunks, mushrooms and tenderloins.  Mix up a cup of additional marinade to brush over the vegetables as they grill.  The marinade will give some flavor to the peppers and mushrooms, but the overall true flavor, of the vegetables, will come through.   

 

 

 

 

 

 

I used metal skewers, but if you only have the wooden ones, make sure to soak them, for 30 minutes, in warm water.  This will keep them from catching fire, and burning, on the grill.  Or, soak them in oil for 5 minutes; food will slide on more easily, and they still will not burn as opposed to being untreated.

 

 

 

 

Dressing for the tortellini salad is the same as the above marinade, except a ¼ teaspoon of both ground black pepper and salt were added.  Mix the dressing in a medium sized bowl.  Cook the one-pound bag of frozen tortellini, drain thoroughly and add to the bowl, folding the pasta into the dressing so as to not break apart the delicate filled pasta.

So, there you have it, cooking and grilling at the Cokenour homestead, and a review, by my own husband, of my culinary achievements.  Summer time will be grilling time for most households, so consider amping up the menu with Mediterranean style skewers (aka kabobs), and German influenced brats and frankfurters (thicker than the average American hot dog).

Mary Cokenour

 

 

Fajitas, an Authentic Mexican Dish?

The answer to that is sort of yes, and sort of no. The Spanish word “faja” means belt or girdle; and refers to the cut of meat known as “skirt steak”. The word “fajita” means a smaller version of the skirt steak itself, or the thin strips cut to create the fajita filling. Grilling meat was not a new style of cooking for the Mexican culture, nor for America; but Mexican vaqueros (cowboys) introduced their American counterparts to their style. Many parts of cattle were discarded, such as the skirt, or given to the ranch hands in lieu of monetary compensation for their work. The meat needed to be grilled to remove the membrane, or “silver skin”, from both sides; it helped keep juices in, but was still too tough to ingest.  Even today, many cuts of beef from the market retain the “silver skin” under that layer of fat left attached.  That price per pound you just paid for includes the section you’re going to throw away.  Marinating the meat all day, or night, guarantees tough beef will be tender and flavorful, but that came later on in culinary history.

A historical piece called “Fajitas, South Texas Style”, done at Texas A&M University by Mary K. Sweeten and Homer Recio, established that this could be traced as far back as the 1930’s in Texas; hence the beginning of what is called “Tex-Mex” cuisine.  (Go to: https://oaktrust.library.tamu.edu/bitstream/handle/1969.1/147901/Bull1500a.pdf?sequence=9&isAllowed=y for the full story.)

While the fajita originally contained beef, nowadays it can contain chicken, pork, seafood, or a combination of these items. Other typical ingredients served with the fajita are onions, shredded lettuce, bell and/or hot peppers, Spanish rice, refried beans, cheese and condiments such as sour cream, salsa and guacamole. Wrapped in warm tortillas, the fajita becomes the perfect little type of sandwich; packed with food and flavors.  Personally, I’m a minimalist, I want to taste the grilled meat, chicken or seafood, and vegetables; so I typically add a little cheese and sour cream.  However some fajitas I’ve seen have been so packed with extras, the tortilla could barely have the ends meet.  Hmm, does that make it a “taco” now, instead of a fajita?

While delving into the history of cuisines might be a bore to most, I see it as knowledge gained.  With all the stories I write, about San Juan County, in my travel blog; many residents have outright stated that I’ve become a bit of a historian in my own right.  Basically, I’m keeping the knowledge of history, whether food or geographically related, alive; and we all know that knowledge is power.

 

Fajitas

 

Ingredients:

2 lbs. sirloin or round steak, cut into 2” x ¼” strips

2 lbs. boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into 2” x ¼ “strips
2 large onions, cut into ¼” strips
1 large each red, yellow and green bell peppers, cut into ¼” strips
1 tsp ground black pepper
1 Tbsp. garlic powder
2 Tbsp. canola oil
1 dozen 8” tortillas (corn or flour)

Marinade:

½ cup canola oil

½ cup white wine vinegar
2 Tbsp. minced garlic
2 jalapeno peppers, seeded and diced
1 ½ Tbsp. minced fresh cilantro
1 Tbsp. ground cumin
1 tsp ground black pepper

Garnish:

Salsa

Refried Beans
Sour Cream
Shredded Mexican Blend or Sharp Cheddar Cheese

Preparation:

Put steak and chicken strips in two separate sealable plastic bags. Prepare marinade by placing all ingredients listed under Marinade into small bowl and whisking together. Divide marinade between the two bags; seal and refrigerate overnight. In a third plastic bag, place the onion and pepper strips, black pepper, garlic powder, 2 Tbsp. oil inside; gently shake to mix together and also refrigerate overnight with steak and chicken.

 

When ready to make fajitas, separately cook steak, chicken and vegetables in a medium skillet on medium-high heat. Cook steak and chicken until no pink is showing; cook vegetables until tender. For the tortillas, heat a 10” skillet or stove top griddle on medium-high heat; warm tortillas for 30 seconds on each side.

Serve steak, chicken, vegetables and tortillas with items listed under Garnish, so each serving can be made as desired.

Makes 12 servings.

Mary Cokenour