The Science of Brining.

In celebration of young children, teens, and adults returning to school, let’s talk science; the science of brining food.  I promise not to do a Thomas Dolby on you, and blind you with science.

“What is the science behind brining meat?  Osmosis is the diffusion of water through a semi-permeable membrane - in this case the meat cells. Through diffusion, the salt and water within the meat cells balance with the salt and water in the surrounding brine which results in a higher concentration of salt and water in the meat.” (https://www.kqed.org/quest/4441/the-science-behind-brining)

The typical “meat” products that benefit from brining are pork, poultry (mainly chicken and turkey), and some types of fish (cod, salmon, swordfish).  Why brine?  The process is not simply an exchange of salt and water.  It also causes a breakdown of muscle fibers, and a loosening of protein, which is essentially the process for tenderization.  Afterwards, when seasoning is added, the “meat” absorbs more, and distributes throughout.

The process of brining, aka pickling, can be traced back to 2400BCE, in ancient Mesopotamia.  This was a main method of food preservation, since refrigeration was basically slim to none.  Yes, clay pots could be coated on the inside, buried deep into the ground, or within tombs; but again, not widely available to the masses. 

Brining was not always a “wet method” either, as “dry brining” is the application of thick layers of salt.  Take, for example, baccala; dried and salted cod, often referred to as salt cod, saltfish or salt dolly.  This fish is usually served, in Italian culture, on Christmas Eve, during the Feast of the Seven Fishes.  The precooking prep is lengthy; “At least two days prior to cooking (but we recommend 3 days), you should begin soaking your salted baccalà in fresh water (at least 36-48 hours). First wash the pieces thoroughly, eliminating all the salt on the surface, and then completely submerge in any container that will hold a lot of water; change the water at least three times a day (every eight hours or even more frequently). “(https://www.delallo.com/blog/how-to-christmas-eve-baccal/)

When it comes to pork, it benefits from brining as it can be very bland in taste, and very tough if overcooked.  Now, once brined, do not be turned off by the whitish and pruney texture of the meat.  Remember, after sitting in water too long, we humans tend to look exactly like that.  After pigs, to cannibals, we are “the other white meat”.

Anyway, pork ribs are the number one section, of the pig, that is usually seen on a grill.  However, pork chops and tenderloins can be a delicious addition to your grilling repertoire.  The average pork tenderloin is 1 to 1 and ½ lbs., looks like a footlong cylinder, and has very little fat, if trimmed correctly by the butcher.  Packages of 2 to 3 lbs. typically contain 2 tenderloins of close to equal weight.  Brining, marinating in a dry rub, and slow roasting on the grill will create a tender, juicy meat packed with flavor.  As with ribs, adding a barbecue sauce is an option.  We usually do as it enhances the flavor of any side dish inhabiting the fork, at the same time as the meat.  The flavors and textures blend in the mouth, and Boom! a full culinary explosion!

 

Dry Rub BBQ Pork Tenderloin

 

Ingredients:

3 lb. package (2-1 and ½ lbs. sections) pork tenderloin

For the Brine

Water

2 Tbsp. salt

¼ cup white wine vinegar

For the Dry Rub

1 cup brown sugar

½ tsp. ground black pepper

2 tsp. paprika

2 tsp. New Mexico chile powder

 

BBQ Sauce - Sweet Baby Ray’s Honey Barbecue or Sweet and Spicy

Preparation:

Place the pork in a large, sealable plastic container; add enough water to cover.  Sprinkle salt over the water, and pour in vinegar; cover, place in refrigerator for 12 hours, or overnight.

Mix together all ingredients for dry rub.  Lay out two pieces of plastic wrap, at least 4 inches longer than each tenderloin.  Spoon a line of dry rub over center of each piece of wrap; place tenderloin over rub; sprinkle remaining rub over top of each tenderloin.  Wrap tightly, place in refrigerator for 12 hours, or overnight.

 

 

 

 

 Preheat outdoor grill to 300F.  Place aluminum foil on grill; place tenderloin on foil, and pour any juices, from plastic wrap, over the pork.  Close grill and let cook for 15 minutes.  Open grill lid, turn pork over, close lid and cook another 15 minutes.  Open lid, turn over pork, and baste with barbeque sauce; close lid, cook for 5 minutes.  Repeat with other side of tenderloins.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Remove pork to cutting board, let rest for 10 minutes before slicing. Depending on thickness of slices, each tenderloin will make 4-6 servings.

 

“She blinded me with science

(She blinded me with science!)

And hit me with technology”

(She Blinded Me With Science - Thomas Dolby) 

I just could not resist!

Mary Cokenour

 

Twin Rocks has Cottonwood Flair.

 

Twin Rocks Café

Address: 913 Navajo Twins Drive

                 Bluff, UT, 84512

Phone: (435) 672-2341

Website: https://www.facebook.com/twinrockscafe/

 

 

May 2019 was the last time I had written a story about Twin Rocks Café.  I was told that Duke Simpson loved that article, and how happy it made him feel.  Then, suddenly, the Duke passed on to that great trading post in the sky.  While it was a sad event, I was glad, in the knowing, that my story had made him feel so happy; sort of a good deed done without thinking to.

Beginning of July, I received a phone call from Frances van der Stappen, General Manager and Chef, of Twin Rocks Café, and she had a story to tell me.  Seems the owners of Cottonwood Steakhouse were hanging up their pots, pans and recipe box to retire, after 27 years, and the restaurant had been sold.  Now while Twin Rocks is loved by locals and tourists alike, the same can be said about the Cottonwood, and what would happen to the staff and all those amazing, downhome recipes?

The answer was for Steve Simpson, Duke’s son and current owner, and Frances to solve this while also solving a café issue, understaffing.  That is correct, understaffing had also hit many businesses in San Juan County, so the café was not able to be open nightly, for dinner, as often as they used to.  They hired the entire team, from Cottonwood Steakhouse, so they could stay together, as a team, earn paychecks, and continue to serve up the food they had prepared and served for many years.  One of those employees is Reed Sampson (Evening Manager), and anyone who has dined frequently within the Blanding/Bluff areas knows Reed.  Not only has he owned his own restaurant (Fattboyz BBQ) at one time, but when it comes to being part of a wait staff, he is the best of the best!

Frances sums it all up nicely with, “We welcomed the opportunity to build a bigger table and to honor the work of this great group of experienced and valued people.”

Maybe you are new to the area, maybe just passing through and decided to read the local newspaper, but a trip to Bluff, for food and scenery is always a great idea.  Twin Rocks Café serves up Four Corners style comfort food, using local, regional food suppliers, as well as Utah Craft Brews on tap, and a select wine list.  With the incorporation of Cottonwood’s recipes, the menu has been changed, but you will still see many of the tried-and-true favorites still available.

 

Fry and Ash breads are freshly made; the tell of freshness is not just the taste, but the steam that floats up as a piece is torn open.  These breads are used, not just as sides, but for the café’s famous Navajo Taco and Navajo Burger.  Both full of locally sourced meats and vegetables; packed with flavors and textures to make your eyes roll with satisfying delight.

 

 

 

Now, while the café offers pick-up ordering, dining inside, or on the patio veranda, is definitely the best of the choices.  The Navajo Twins stand tall beside the trading posts, and when the sunlight hits the bluffs, of Bluff, it is a breathtaking view.  No wonder those 1880s pioneers decided to hitch their horses to the river side trees, and call, where their wagons stopped, home.

So, with all the menu and staff changes, Twin Rocks was able to establish firm hours of operation once again:

NEW DINNER HOURS BEGINNING FRIDAY, JULY 9

Friday: 5-9 PM

Saturday: 5-9 PM

Sunday: 5-9 PM

MONDAY 5-9 PM

As always, the Cafe will be open for lunch, brunch and dinner

Sunday: 8-3

Monday: 8-3

Tuesday: 8-3

Wednesday: 8-3

THURSDAY CLOSED FOR STAFF DAY OFF

Friday: 8-3

Saturday: 8-3

 

Breakfast is served up to 3pm, so if you are absolutely craving Navajo Blue Corn Pancakes, or one of their two versions of Eggs Benedict, you can!

Roy and I were so lucky to be able and dine there on Saturday, July 10^th, and it was like the Fates had arranged it.  I had been so looking forward to trying out a new recipe, on the grill, for barbecued pork tenderloin.  Unlucky me, none available; ah, but not so unlucky after all.  That phone call, from Frances, also included a dinner invite, and how could we say no?

 

First off, our waiter was Reed, and it was so good to see him again.  Besides pampering us, we always have good jokes and stories to relate during moments, fleeting moments, of down time.

He started us off with our favorite appetizer, Buffalo Chicken Bites; tender pieces of boneless, skinless white meat chicken, deep fried and coated in a medium spiced sauce.  Oh, before I forget, dressings, sauces, sides, basically everything is made fresh, in house; and Frances trust her kitchen staff to the umpteenth degree!

 

 

Next was the Three Sisters Salad containing spring mix greens with roasted corn, Anasazi beans, tomato, cucumber, red onion and toasted tortilla chips (corn and blue corn).  We chose the Agave-Balsamic vinaigrette which only brought out the flavor of each item.  The variety of textures was like a handful of puzzle pieces, that suddenly came all together, to create an amazing photo of taste.

 

 

 

Roy’s main meal was the 16 oz. Rib-Eye Steak (sourced from Hyrum, UT), sides of cole slaw and fries, and a green chili aioli (sorry fry sauce lovers, this aioli is better!)  The moment Reed brought this out, the overwhelming scent of charred meat got the salivary glands working in overtime.  The steak was tender, juicy and very little fat, so mainly meat…meat…meat!

 

 

 

My choice was the Pork Tenderloin with Barbecue Butter.  See, I was lucky again, as I got my grilled pork tenderloin after all.  My choice of sides was Anasazi beans (heart healthy) and potato salad.   While the pork had char on the outside, the meat itself cut like butter, so tender and tasty.  The barbecue butter gave an interesting experience.  As the piece of meat, smeared with the butter, went into the mouth, a sudden “twang” hit the back of the throat.  Chewing, the flavors of the two items mixed and it gave a satisfying comfort to the mouth feel.

 

 

 

 

We were smart to save half of our main meals for home, as dessert had to be tried.  We have enjoyed the café’s Peaches de Chelly, but now was time to try Strawberry de Chelly.  Whipped cream, vanilla ice cream, sliced strawberries sitting on freshly made Navajo frybread.  Roy is not a huge dessert eater, but even he was fighting me for the last bite of this heavenly creation.

 

What’s in store for the future?  The old crowded gift shop is gone; only local items such as Blue Bird Flour, Adobe Milling, Utah’s own Real Salt, and dried Anasazi Beans are for sale, for now.  Eventually a coffee/kitchen gift shop will be in the works, hopefully offering up freshly, and locally, made canned goods.  Anyone can buy a t-shirt anywhere, but Twin Rocks Café is all about the food; and they are great at doing that.

Mary Cokenour